Wednesday 19 May 2021

Glimpse of Kenya : Part 1 Nairobi




It was just after 4 months shifting our base toDebrezyiet(Ethiopia)that the opportunity of going to   Kenya fell on our lap. We were more than happy to join Capt. Sachin who was posted in Indian embassy and his friends. Sachin had planned, made all reservations for his family friends but due to health reason his parents could not go so we got the opportunity go with them. The year was 2011. 
We left for Nairobi from Addis Ababa on 10th November by evening flight and landed in Nairobi on 11th early morning. The pick up vehicle was waiting for us, the same vehicle and driver would be with us till we will be in Nairobi. Due to unseasonal rains the weather was cool and pleasant. 
First day was booked for Nairobi sightseeing. After checking in, freshened up, we had hearty breakfast of eggs, toast, croissant fresh fruits and coffee. All set we started off for our tour of Nairobi. 
First and foremost was to get out dollars changed to local currency. One can go to banks or get it done through middle men which one can find aplenty, or other option is to get foreign exchange done at hotel desk. Hotel people and middlemen take their commission thus it is better to go to bank to get fair deal. Once money matter was sorted  we got into the van. 
Traffic is notoriously bad in Kenya (things must have changed for better now), thus snaking through the crowd of people and vehicles we were driven by our driver cum guide through bustling market and important buildings of Nairobi. 
The most important thing I noticed apart from government offices, courts building etc was this monument dedicated to heros of independence war. 
Once we were out of main city road we could smell the freshness of crysp cool wind and see the countryside of Kenya. I was so much amazed and excited to see the potters sitting with their clay pots, pitchers etc. just like we see in India. I was compelled to get down and see the amazing art of pottery displayed by road side. Much of the articles displayed were inspired by either Kenyan culture and independence war, soldiers. 
Had I been returning from Nairobi the same day, not going anywhere else I would have surely purchased these beautiful creation of simple, improvised people. But I had to go places next 10 days so had to compromise with my feelings. 
Our first stop was National Museum of Kenya(NMK), situated at museum hill. This museum was known as Corydon museum named after erstwhile governor of Kenya Sir. Robert Corydon who gave the land to make the museum building and later his wife donated large sum of money to make this museum in memory of her husband. Beautiful garden, manicured lawns and bloom of seasonal flowers welcome the tourists.

This museum is an amazing window to the rich past and present, culture, history, war for independence, wild life food, agriculture and tribes of Kenya. Phography was forbidden so it can be expressed through words only how enthralling and informative this museum is. One can spend whole day going through the museum and learning about the flora, fauna, wild life, food, history of Kenya and enjoy picnic in vast open garden having trees with huge canopy for shade. I was amazed to see the neatness, care and love poured into keeping the heritage safe. Elephant Ahmed who was prized possession of Kenyan wild life due to its exceptionally large tusks and was guarded by Kenya's first president Kenyatta body guards till its death. Ahmed's replica finds place of pride outside the museum and inside his skeleton is kept with his famed tusks attached along with lateral section of molar tooth. Ahmed is revered here. Apart from this the cloths, beads jewelry, different articles of use in bygone Era, birds replicas with details all kept us busy as we moved from one room to another. 
Skeleton dated back to 1.5 to 25 million yrs are in display. This museum is also research centre now. 
The well maintained bungalow of erstwhile British era governor of Kenya, an old church building, well kept manicured lawn with floral garden surrounding it give this place enchanting look. 
Our second stop was the Giraffe Park. One has to purchase ticket to enter the park. All these nitty gritties were taken care by our driver Mathew. Once inside the park a graceful fully stretched Giraffe welcomed us from behind the fence as if saying you are welcome but do respect the boundaries. 
Quickly we picked the food kept for feeding the giraffe (they do not sell it, it is kept there for visitors to feed giraffe. This is done to monitor the quality of feed.) 
It was thrilling to feed the giraffes which would come to the platform strech their neck to eat from visitors hand. The giraffes roam freely inside the fenced area which is huge forest land. 
After enjoying the company of giraffes, feeding them we went to the small stalls displaying artifacts made up of Black wood, clay, stone. T-shirts, caps and other gifts are also available. They are a bit expensive here. 
From Giraffe Park we went to another park where orphaned animals of wide varieties are brought from wild and are taken care of till they are ready to be released in their habitat. If it is feeding time of any baby animal visitors can enjoy the experience of feeding baby elephant, giraffe, zebra, but cat family cubs are out of reach. It was great experience feeding milk to baby elephant with a 4lt.bottle. 
We spotted wild boars mother, father babies. On inquiring we were told that they are all rescued animals some badly hurt some orphaned, and now the the sow looks after the babies as her own 🤗. 
We were too full after that jumbo breakfast and had fruits, biscuits water and canned juices with us. So lunch stop was traded for more pleasant drive through cool shaded road to the Art and Craft village. 
One can find private shops, shops run by government selling artifacts made up of wood, stone, clay, beads, locally woven cloth, dress and other scores of things. The one thing that caught me by surprise was the book case made of wood/black stone with elephant/lion heads on both sides. It was very heavy and can encase one thick book so it is mainly used for Bible. 
Locals can be seen making these things there. The display of artifacts shows rich cultural heritage of Kenya and pride they take in it. 
One word of caution 'do not get fooled by sellers there claiming wooden artifacts are of ebony wood. Few are of ebony wood, and those which are will weigh heavy, and not painted bkack' bargain hard before you purchase. 
Sun had started going down the horizon, we had many miles to cover to reach "The Indian Market".  In Kenya mini India can be seen. Educational institutes, trade, medical and many other institutions are run by Indians, most if not all by Gujaratis,and where there are Indians an Indian market is quintessential. We were headed to that market only. 
It was almost 5pm, we all were hungry and the smell of food was too tempting, so we went to the shop of our choice. Samosa tikki chat and nariyal pani. Yum. Some wanted to do shopping of Indian goods because of non availability of those items in Ethiopia. 
Next we went for Swami Narayan temple. By the time we reached sun had gone down the horizon and Temples were lit with colorful lights. It was a Devine site.
We attended the arti and after paying our obeisance left for our hotel. 
Once in our room we had 30 minutes to freshen up and change. We all were tired and sweaty by now so a warm water bath was very soothing. All ready we gathered to leave for "Carnivore" an eating joint for hardcore non-vegetarians, and truly not for weak hearted people. 
In Kenya lisence is granted for hunting limited numbers of wild animals per day and is monitored strictly. In Carnivore the moment one enters is welcomed by a huge deep barbecue pit, skinned whole animals like zebra, crocodile, wild boar, wilder beast, lamb, goat to name few can be seen being barbecued there. 
For some it may be a macabre site but for those like us enjoy barbecue it was an life time experience to be served piping hot barbecued meat right from the pit by bearers dressed in wild life costume, a band playing local and English songs on the side room, ready to please the customers with their choice choice of songs. 
To go to Carnivore it is not only about food but more about experience and soaking into the food culture of Kenyans. 
For record I have turned vegetarian since last 7 years. Out of choice. 
Having enjoyed the evening, full up to brim with tasty, different type of food we headed to our hotel for a good night's sleep so that we can start fully rested, fresh, for our much looked forward to visit to Masai Mara Wold Life Sanctuary. 
Nairobi has an amazing arboretum which requires atleast half day to enjoy the walk through thick forest are. Masai market is dedicated to local art and craft where people of different walk, different tribe put up stalls and sell their wares ranging from curios to cloths to food items. 
At the end of our journey when we had to take flight from Nairobi, we had enough time to visit Masai market. I did some shopping. The masks I purchased graces the wall at my son's place in Chicago and rest in my house find place of pride. 
My next blog will have more photos of beautiful, ferocious wildlife we saw and of some tribal we met. 



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