Early Morning Jaunt To Ganga Ghaat In Varanasi

 It was February 2018 when wedding of my sister's son was to be solemenized in Varanasi also known as Banares/Kashi. The opportunity of paying my obeisance to Mahadev in Kashi-Vishwanath temple, sit by the banks of mighty Godess of rivers, the revered Ganga to whom I had dedicated a poem. Do boating in deceptively calm water and watch sunrise.

Sneaking away early in the morning by 5 am from the hotel we reached near Ghat by 5.30am. There are touts roaming around, one has to be alert not to get duped. Our driver arranged a boatmen who would be our guide and boatman bundled in one.

From road he took us through broad lanes into Assi Ghat. 

We reached on time as sun was about to appear through the misty, slightly cloudy sky. 

The sun started emerging from the horizon where Ganga and the sky seemed to meet. It seemed that Sun is gliding up after it has taken a dip in the water of Ganga.

It was little dark yet. Sky was little cloudy and morning mist was yet to clear, casting a dark hue to skyline ans Ganga. We waited for few minutes clicking pictures of sun, flying birds, changing colors of sky and Ganges.

Once Sun was a bit above water in the sky we descended the steps of ghat to reach the waiting boat. I had heard about Ganga and her Gahts becoming very dirty due to lack of civic behaviour of people and negligence of earlier government. At that btime I had dedicated a poem to Gabga and all life giving riveres (Conversation With River). But it seems things are taking a turn for better. 

Spick span shining Assi ghat welcomed us with open arms and lead us to bank bank of Ganga where boats neatly lined up waiting for tourists, faithful and pilgrims.

The boatmen were merrily singing in local dialects, birds were flying high and it seemed as if they want to remove the shadow of clouds from the face of sun. 

I just wanted to spend an hour in calming waters of Ganga and enjoy the rising sun and its effect on Ganga water. I was fervently praying for clouds and mist to clear. 

Lo and behold! my prayers were answered and the pink, golden rays of Sun started bathing in Ganga water. I was awestruck by the effect of the ascending sun over the ghat and the Temples. 

Fishermen were casting their nets, some were removing the nets, birds were making merry with the catch they were being thrown by the fishermen.

The boatman took us almost at the midstream so that we are almost isolated as requested by us. 

I had purchased some bird feed from the shop and loved the way the birds fluttered their wings and shrieked when I threw the feed in water near them. 

Sometimes the boatman would row the boat almost near to the ghat and tell detail of it. Truely speaking I was not able to register much because I was more engrossed in feasting upon the old intricate facades of ghats and Temples, the rippling waves with mesmerizing change in colour that the Sun rays were causing, while the sun was ascending in the sky. 

One needs a whole day if one wants to get down on each and every ghatt and pray to reigning diety in the Temples. We has four hours to go boating from ghatt to ghatt, enjoy the sunrise and go to Kashi - Vishwanath temple and go back to hotel to be present in marriage ceremonies.

After Assi ghatt we got down only at the banks near to Manikarnika ghatt almost after 2hrs on a boat in Ganga waters. Here the temple of Ratna Devi is situated. This Temples is taller than Leaning tower of Pissa and the degree to which it is leaning from it's base is more by few degrees as compared to Leaning tower of Pissa.

This ghatt has tremendous religious importance. Few details you can see in the photo below.

In Hindu religion it is believed that breathing last in Varanasi and being cremated in Manakarnika ghatt brings salvation to the soul.

काशी मरत, मुक्ति करत, लेत राम नाम। 

Belive me once at the banks of Ganga, one feels an unexplainable calm, such great sense of Devine blessings, that effort to lift our feet to move away, even if it was for going to Kashi - Vishwanath temple was too much. But one has to move on.

The lanes and bylanes through which we were taken for Shiva darshan in Kashi-Vishwanath temple were very narrow, dotted with Temples and  not very clean. I would have preffered longer but cleaner path. But our boatman and guide was the boss 😅.

Once out of the bylanes we were on the path leading to temple. Nice arrangement for keeping shoes and belongings in locker. Broader, clean paved pathway to the temple was such a relief. We were at last in 'The Vishwanath Galli'. 

The breathtaking edifice of temple welcomes the devotees. There are three domes shaped spire all covered with gold. Thus this temple is also called Golden Temple of Varanasi. Maharana Ranjit Singh in 1835 offered one ton gold to Vishwanath the reigning diety of the temple. This gold was used to cover  temple's 

This temple was built by Punyashlok Ahilya Devi Holkar in 1777-80. 

Ahilya Bai Holkar was ardent devotee of Lord Shiv since childhood. It is said that Lord Shiv appeared in her dream and instructed her to make the temple where it stands today. 

The original temple was broken many times by mughal invaders and Aurangzeb after destroying the temple, built Gyan Vapi masjid over the ruins of Temple. 

To the Northside (between temple and masjid) of the temple is a well named Gyan Vapi. It is believed that the original Shivling is yet there. Some historians and faithfuls say when Aurangzeb attacked the temple the chief priest jumped into the well taking the revered Shivling with him so that it is not desecrated by the invading army of Aurangzeb. 

The main temple is quadrangle and shivling is enshrined in silver garbhgruh (altar). Kashi-Vishwanath temple is one of the twelve Jyotirlings,revered by Hindus all over the world. 

There is not an iota of pushing or jostling because it was yet early for the crowd to flock the temple. Clamly wait for in the queue and pray peacefully.

In the temple premise there are many other Temples. Mahakal, Dandpani Annapurna devi,Avimukteshwar, Vishnu, Vinayak, Bajrang Bali Hanuman being foremost. 

Many shivlings, statues of devi, devtas which archeology department could unearth and save are kept in a huge hall. Regular prayers are routinely done that hall by devotees. 

One understands that the earning from other small Temples in and around the premises of Kashi-Vishwanath temple, in the lanes and by lanes, is the livelihood of the priests and pandas, but I really wish pestering the devotees is discouraged as one wishes to be in peace of mind once in and around the temple. 

After having darshan, doing parikrama and resting in the peaceful calming surrounding we left for hotel for the ceremonies of the happy occasion. 

I surely wish to visit Varanasi again this time for few days. Only to spend time by Ganga, seeking blessing of Vishwanath Baba Bhloenath. 

*This article was written before Kadhi-Vishwanath corridor was built. Now those narrow lanes have been broadened up by relocating people and broad, neat passage leads from ghatt to temple. Also from ghatt temple can be viewed. May be one day I will be able to visit to see the glory of temple from ghat.