A Glimpse Of Ethiopia: Part 1: Lalibela A City of Rock Churches

Having read the history (courtesy Dr. Hagos who got the book from Addis University) of Ethiopia and its culture, archeological heritage, importance as a Christian pilgrimage I was eager to see go for a tour of Ethiopia. Would it be possible? I used to keep on thinking in the loneliness of my house.

My dreams came true and we went around in Ethiopia and enjoyed the lake of Bahirdhar, forts of Gondar, Rock churches of Lalibella and a lost civilization of Axum (Aksum).

Ethiopia has been blessed by God with natural beauty. Hills, lakes and vast expanse of land (left due to lack of agricultural as well as industrial development and low population) are host to 964 (approx.) species of birds and many other wild lives.

We started from Addis to Lalibella by plane. It was onset of rainy season, so the hills were lush green and we were spared from the Mediterranean sun blazing down on us. The cold weather was best for sightseeing. What I saw was beyond my imagination or what I thought I would see in Lalibela and rest of the places we visited.

If Lalibela is called the city of churches then Axum has a rich history of the kingdom of the golden era of Ethiopia. The present government is trying hard to continue the archeological digging, dating and cataloging the historical facts and remains found there which have been left unfinished due to untimely demise of a German, an Archeology scholar who was leading the team of archeologists in Oxum. If Lalibela is pilgrimage to the faithful Oxum is the pilgrimage to the historians and archeologists.

This article I am just dedicating to Lalibella. A journey to Oxum and its rich history will be followed in other article albeit mainly with pictures and less with words.

I would really suggest that even if one is neither a faithful nor a historian (like me), should visit Lalibela because its lush green hills, clouds floating by them and cool climate, which provide the much sought for solace from hectic life. The untouched pristine beauty, calm and quite environment is an absolute bliss. A treasure for those who are interested in going through history and also for the faithful I would say this country of ancient churches is a must visit. 

There are budget hotels as well as very good luxury hotels with very good clealiness and hygine, and a very courteous staff.
Tourist buses or individual taxis can be hired alongwith guides to take you around lalibela.

The churches and the museum give an insight to the rich cultural past of Ethiopia and the acute interest and knowledge of architect of that time ruler of Lalibela. We had some difficulty throughout the visit due to our food habits but all those who are non-vegetarians and par-take beef even the food is heavenly (as told to us by our friend Derez).

Since our friend was also not too proficient in English and I could not comprehend most of the thing he said thus cannot give the factual account of the places but the pictures would summarize what I cannot by words.

I would desist from putting any historical facts as this article is not about history but a window to those who want to visit this beautiful country or if cannot visit, can get a peek through my humble effort of photography.

It is claimed that baptism of Christ was done in Lalibella and the first church was built in “Lalibela Ethiopia”. Whatever may be true (I am not a historian), what I saw there was awe-inspiring.

The churches carved out of single rock and having exquisite design and architect, interconnecting of the churches through the pathways made by cutting the rocks.

Church 20-30 meters below the ground where only the cross made on the roof is visible from the ground level. (It seemed as if cross was carved on a rock, in my widest dream also I could not imagine that it was the top of a very tall structure which had its base deep below the ground.

Once I saw Lalibella I understood why it is called a city of Rock Churches.

It is amazing that in the era when there were no modern tools and machineries how exquisitely these churches were carved using chisel and other hand equipment. The symmetry in the architectural design is stupefying.

The then king of Lalibela had commissioned these churches and brought this beautiful hill station in the map of holy city for the faithful.

These churches are not merely a place of tourist attraction. They are yet used as sacred place of worship, faithful flock in thousands clad in white shroud, walking from distant places with their small bible clutched in hand and rosary in the other hand.

The churches are maintained neat clean and have pin drop silence adding to the mysterious existence of these churches in hilly, rocky region.

They provide the solace from the daily life and are perfect place for deep meditation and worshipping.

The convergence of people from all nearby village for praying also act as social gathering, meeting between friends and relatives take place during this congregation.

Monasteries are built in the most inaccessible place, on the top of the rocky hill where one can reach either on foot or riding on ponies.

In one of the church which has whole structure 20- 30feet below the ground with just the top bearing a cross on the ceiling visible from ground level. In the peripherial rocks notch are kept, crudely preserved mummies of the two Italian nuns, who passed away during their deep meditation hundreds of years before.

All these cluster of churches in Lalibella are called Rock churches and are now declared World Heritage.

Ethiopia being a poor country is not self-sufficient technologically as well as monetarily to maintain these sites thus World heritage and archeological department is doing the digging of the sites, renovation and maintenance.

By the time this article is published many changes for good must have come. An amazing journey had just started, it will continue to Axum, Mekhele, Gondar, and many cities of Ethiopia. 

House To Home

Time to put the legs up and watch TV

What is body without its soul but a simple carcass, similarly a house is a simple brick and mortar structure if it does not have a soul. Yes, I did say soul. The soul of the house is the person living in it making it their home. But again comes the question, what is home? Well according to me, a place where one not only finds shelter, but feels comfortable and relaxes in peace, a place where one does not feel cramped and clustered, but gets his/her space and thus peace of mind, is qualified to be called home.

To convert a house into a home one requires to convert the walled structure to a comfortable living place and this is called getting interior of the house done. One may design the road map of what and how to be done itself but until unless the knowledge of space and space management is with you, it is always advisable to hire an interior designer.

When we purchased our house we were at a dilemma who will be right person to understand our need and do the justification to our requirement with in our budget. Since we were getting the interior done while we were residing in it, time was also a big deciding factor.

We did not have to look too far as the person we were looking for was right behind our back yard (figuratively speaking). Our Mr. Right was Mr. Amar Rajadhyaksh who is an interior designer, a person who dislikes seeing the client’s money going waste, and makes optimum use of resources and time. Yes he gets bullish sometimes but then it is only to make the client understand what is best for them and explains painstakingly why things should be done the way he is suggesting, because there should be no regrets after getting things done. After all how many people can afford to get the interior done second time!!! Even after gentle persuasion and cajoling if the clients fail to get what according to him should not have been done then believe me 99% time regret is the only recourse.

Sitting room 

I will recount an incident with names withheld. There was a lady who could not understand the idea of hanging kitchen and despite of all explanations and cajoling when she refused to agree what Amar (now on wards he will be referred as Amar as he hates formalities and loves to be addressed as Amar only) was trying to tell her that it will be the ease of cleaning and a cockroaches free kitchen is assured if you get a hanging kitchen made, She insisted to use the space for drawers right up to floor. She had her say and when half the work was done and she saw the hanging kitchen at some friends place she had a change of mind. It was too late and regret is her’s till she has time money and energy to get the kitchen done again.

So listen to the expert and give a good thought to it with calm mind.

We have had many sessions with Amar during the duration of three months of our house being done. He would try to tell me gently no, this is not required and when being head strong I would argue with him he would put his foot down and I would ultimately relent and I certainly have no regrets about it at all. Now I understand that what he could see in his mind as an expert interior person I could not.

To cut a long story short, one should first sit down with family members and decide what the requirements are and what the budget is. These are the two basic things any interior designer worth its salt would like to know. Once that is conveyed the expert takes over. Many layouts will be presented and again the family has to sit and decide amongst themselves what is best for them. Then onwards the house is in the hand of the Interior person till it is converted to your comfortable, cozy place which is called home.

Guest room with sofa cum bed

Lofts merging with walls 

My first suggestion would be, as far as possible get the interior of the house done when it is empty, else you would face the terrible discomfort of noise pollution, dust pollution. We did not have any option but to get the interior done while residing in it, that is a total of three months. Yes in just three months Amar got all three bedrooms, drawing dining and kitchen done. He is a workaholic  and is a good paymaster but a hard taskmaster also. Accepting anything a bit below standard and below perfection is not his cup of tea. 

Though we faced the discomfort for three months yet the insight gained, to how things are done and how much laborious the task is, is simply amazing.

Kitchen being my workplace (I love cooking and baking) I wanted to get it done the way I had envisioned my kitchen would be. And making few changes to what and how I wanted Amar got it done so perfect that I cannot stop praising his vision and decision, to my friends and relative who are all praises for the work done in kitchen and of course rest of the house.

Oh this is my kitchen??

Some semblence to my vision of kithen

This is what I wanted :)

Earlier though the house was big enough, yet I used to feel cramped the kitchen used to feel stuffy and small (I forgot to take the pictures before the alterations were done). Today the house is the home I had always wanted. Very aesthetically done, comfortable and looks so much spacious. One can understand the difference between having a space and creating space from nowhere only after seeing Amar work. Since he sees the space in Cubic Inches instead of Square feet, he literally creates space  where we think there is not space. (That is why we have nick named him “creator of space”:) ;) ).

Bar made in the space between the two walls and hanging Shelf below TV

The unobtrusive loft and great sapce utilization

We were consulted twice before starting the work of each room, so that if we want any last minute changes or the requirements have changed then they can be accommodated. It was such a wonderful experience working with this gentleman. Once the work starts the boundary of client and service provider gets blurred and a life time relation as a family member takes birth, because for him it is not work but pure passion, and worship. An eight to ten hours journey or a detour from his route would be no problem for him to assuage our complaints regarding material or work force.

Dressing table with hanging drawers between door and cupboards :)

Bedroom looks too sapcious

When the kitchen was brought down completely and wood, tiles, cement was stored in my house I used to wonder if I am getting a house constructed or interior done.  The whole experience has made me wiser and I appreciate the mental and physical labor that goes into it.

Some words of caution; be firm of what you want after all it is you who are going to stay in it. Listen to the expert; he/she knows what would be best. If you are not residing in the house do make sure that you visit the site every now and then, because it is your house. The interior designer is a hired person for the job and he /she has many more clients like you so cannot be present 24x7. Every person is not like Amar. We were lucky to have him for the job.

Unobtrusive lofts and one cupboards behind the door

Purchasing the material should be done always by the advice of the person doing the job, because he/she knows what and how much is required. When I saw the first consignment of the ply coming I thought oh! My God where will it be consumed? And later saw three more consignments landing at my place.

Keep all the left over material till the expert asks you to discard it because the labor / sub-contractors make hay at your cost. I have faced it.

Last but not least always look for the best Interior Designer because you may use expensive, best quality material but how it is put to use makes tremendous difference. In my house no columns were damaged, even drilling columns for laying wire was not permitted by Mr. Amar. He had made a lay out of the house by doing the measurement himself, so that the structural damage causing weakening of the building does not take place. This can be understood and taken care by somebody with experience and good work ethics. I though requested for shortcut (little drilling of column) the request was firmly denied and I was made to endure the ghrr sound of wall cutting machine with dust spray in air. Today I understand that for me it was only discomfort but for him, increased days of labor and nth number of visit to my house to make sure no damage to structure was being done and work was perfect.

Once the work is done and the payment is done the client is not forgotten but a great after service is also provided to the client’s satisfaction.

Now my son has also bought a house. We are wiser of what should be done what not. For us our search has ends  with Mr. Amar. The house at Dynasty is waiting eagerly for the expert hands aka mind of Amar.

Oh! I forgot to mention a very important thing. If you have a house with open land and want landscaping also done you can go for a combined package, because his wife Urmila is an Architect. I call this wonderful couple TWO IN ONE.

If you are thinking of getting interior done or landscaping done then you can contact them at:

amarurmi@gmail.com

A Ceremony At Tasfaye's House In Etiopia

Lovely duo dancing with joy

Preparation for feast was going since four days right in front of my house. Ladies were busy cutting onions, baking bread, making spices, gentlemen in slaughtering sheep, cow and cocks. I thought some marriage preparation was going on.

On the D-day guests started arriving from morning. It was hot summer day. Mediterranean sun was blazing down on earth. Men were sweating under the suit and tie and ladies in their traditional dress complete with head gear and stylish hairstyle and wigs. I thought how nice I will be able to witness and photograph an Ethiopian wedding.

Guests arriving 

Big huge table was decked up for laying the feast. beef cooked in different style, Sheep meat, chicken. rice, biscuits, kebabs and much more was on the table.

Last minute checking if all has been layed on table

Food covered and well gaurded

All Ethioian delicacies layed for feast

Beef and other savories with rice 

Injera

Ethiopian Pita bread

 Tent was raised and decorated with flowers and leaves. As it is the tradition in Ethiopia green grass was spread on the path way. Oh!  is the groom is going to walk green carpet? I could sense the excitement in the air, then suddenly almost after two hours delay a car starts honking the horn indicating the arrival of the man of the day.

The tent raised for ceremony

All ready to Welcome Kiya Tesfaye

The car stops in front of the house and ladies start making ululating sound (Alalta in Amharic) to cheer and welcome the much awaited person of the day. He alights from the car cheered with louder ululation. NO! It is not groom surely for he was not in groom attire, but was dressed in black gown and cap and a roll of paper duly tied with red ribbon his hand. 

Proud Mom, Dad, Sis and Aunt with Kiya

Though utterly confused I kept on clicking the pictures. Much hugging, shedding tears of happiness and he is led inside the tent, with sofa set for the man of the day and his friend, benches for parent relatives and guests. 

Kiya with friends

Hesitatingly I asked what exactly the occasion is? To my surprise I was told by proud father that his son Kiya is coming back after completing his B.E thus Graduation Ceremony!! We are welcoming Kiya after his successful completion of bachelor’s course and bringing the degree. His answers not only made me understand that how much importance  education and graduation is given in Ethiopia but also my mistake of taking it to be marriage ceremony.

What I was witnessing and photographing was not wedding but a party for Kiya. The  great graduation ceremony.

Guest waithing to congratulate Kiya

Wiping the forehead with the palm and then giving gift to the graduated boy with the sweaty hands was the high light of the day. Suit and tie on the top of that graduation gown and cap was making Kiya face red and body itchy as if he has touched an ivy plant. Yet he was unwilling to let go of the graduation regalia (after all he has become a bachelor! with a degree now). Tables were decked up for laying the feast and people were eyeing the tables  eagerly waiting for the cover to be removed.

Gift given now next step of feasting has to start fast before all Coca-Cola is gulped down to overcome the discomfort of heat trapped in the suit and hunger pangs in the stomach.

Dr. Tasfaye called me aside and shows me the fully laid table. What a gorgeous spread it was! With chicken, sheep and beef meat cooked in different ways. Injera, Dabbo and Pitta made at home, Rice and vegetables. Blasphemy how could I forget the Biscuits and chips and cookies. Beer and more Coco-cola was waiting to wash down the throat the sumptuous spread. I clicked some pictures and excused myself after wishing the Man of the day and his parents, as I did not want to intrude upon their party.

I had just now witnessed the Ethiopian graduation ceremony. 

In the night there was dancing with lovely Ethiopian music. Myself and my husband were curiously looking when we were again invited inside the tent and we danced along with them. What open hearted and nice people they are. We thoroughly enjoyed with you all Tasfaye family.

Lovely duo dancing with joy

I also joined them

Thank you Dr. and Mrs Tasfaye for inviting us and allowing me to click pictures of your private function and putting them in blog.