A Glimpse Of Ethiopia: Part 1: Lalibela A City of Rock Churches

Having read the history (courtesy Dr. Hagos who got the book from Addis University) of Ethiopia and its culture, archeological heritage, importance as a Christian pilgrimage I was eager to see go for a tour of Ethiopia. Would it be possible? I used to keep on thinking in the loneliness of my house.

My dreams came true and we went around in Ethiopia and enjoyed the lake of Bahirdhar, forts of Gondar, Rock churches of Lalibella and a lost civilization of Axum (Aksum).

Ethiopia has been blessed by God with natural beauty. Hills, lakes and vast expanse of land (left due to lack of agricultural as well as industrial development and low population) are host to 964 (approx.) species of birds and many other wild lives.

We started from Addis to Lalibella by plane. It was onset of rainy season, so the hills were lush green and we were spared from the Mediterranean sun blazing down on us. The cold weather was best for sightseeing. What I saw was beyond my imagination or what I thought I would see in Lalibela and rest of the places we visited.

If Lalibela is called the city of churches then Axum has a rich history of the kingdom of the golden era of Ethiopia. The present government is trying hard to continue the archeological digging, dating and cataloging the historical facts and remains found there which have been left unfinished due to untimely demise of a German, an Archeology scholar who was leading the team of archeologists in Oxum. If Lalibela is pilgrimage to the faithful Oxum is the pilgrimage to the historians and archeologists.

This article I am just dedicating to Lalibella. A journey to Oxum and its rich history will be followed in other article albeit mainly with pictures and less with words.

I would really suggest that even if one is neither a faithful nor a historian (like me), should visit Lalibela because its lush green hills, clouds floating by them and cool climate, which provide the much sought for solace from hectic life. The untouched pristine beauty, calm and quite environment is an absolute bliss. A treasure for those who are interested in going through history and also for the faithful I would say this country of ancient churches is a must visit. 

There are budget hotels as well as very good luxury hotels with very good clealiness and hygine, and a very courteous staff.
Tourist buses or individual taxis can be hired alongwith guides to take you around lalibela.

The churches and the museum give an insight to the rich cultural past of Ethiopia and the acute interest and knowledge of architect of that time ruler of Lalibela. We had some difficulty throughout the visit due to our food habits but all those who are non-vegetarians and par-take beef even the food is heavenly (as told to us by our friend Derez).

Since our friend was also not too proficient in English and I could not comprehend most of the thing he said thus cannot give the factual account of the places but the pictures would summarize what I cannot by words.

I would desist from putting any historical facts as this article is not about history but a window to those who want to visit this beautiful country or if cannot visit, can get a peek through my humble effort of photography.

It is claimed that baptism of Christ was done in Lalibella and the first church was built in “Lalibela Ethiopia”. Whatever may be true (I am not a historian), what I saw there was awe-inspiring.

The churches carved out of single rock and having exquisite design and architect, interconnecting of the churches through the pathways made by cutting the rocks.

Church 20-30 meters below the ground where only the cross made on the roof is visible from the ground level. (It seemed as if cross was carved on a rock, in my widest dream also I could not imagine that it was the top of a very tall structure which had its base deep below the ground.

Once I saw Lalibella I understood why it is called a city of Rock Churches.

It is amazing that in the era when there were no modern tools and machineries how exquisitely these churches were carved using chisel and other hand equipment. The symmetry in the architectural design is stupefying.

The then king of Lalibela had commissioned these churches and brought this beautiful hill station in the map of holy city for the faithful.

These churches are not merely a place of tourist attraction. They are yet used as sacred place of worship, faithful flock in thousands clad in white shroud, walking from distant places with their small bible clutched in hand and rosary in the other hand.

The churches are maintained neat clean and have pin drop silence adding to the mysterious existence of these churches in hilly, rocky region.

They provide the solace from the daily life and are perfect place for deep meditation and worshipping.

The convergence of people from all nearby village for praying also act as social gathering, meeting between friends and relatives take place during this congregation.

Monasteries are built in the most inaccessible place, on the top of the rocky hill where one can reach either on foot or riding on ponies.

In one of the church which has whole structure 20- 30feet below the ground with just the top bearing a cross on the ceiling visible from ground level. In the peripherial rocks notch are kept, crudely preserved mummies of the two Italian nuns, who passed away during their deep meditation hundreds of years before.

All these cluster of churches in Lalibella are called Rock churches and are now declared World Heritage.

Ethiopia being a poor country is not self-sufficient technologically as well as monetarily to maintain these sites thus World heritage and archeological department is doing the digging of the sites, renovation and maintenance.

By the time this article is published many changes for good must have come. An amazing journey had just started, it will continue to Axum, Mekhele, Gondar, and many cities of Ethiopia.