Showing posts with label #Gujarat tourism. Show all posts
Showing posts with label #Gujarat tourism. Show all posts

Wednesday, 30 December 2015

Glimpse Of Gujarat Part: 5 Somnath/गुजरात दर्शन :५ सोमनाथ (The First Of Twelve Jyotirlingas)


Saurashtre Somanathamcha, Srisaile Mallikarjunam|
Ujjayinya Mahakalam, Omkaramamaleswaram||
Paralyam Vaidyanathancha, Dakinyam Bheema Shankaram|
Setu Bandhethu Ramesam, Nagesam Darukavane||
Varanasyantu Vishwesam, Tryambakam Gautameethate|
Himalaya Kedaaram, Ghrishnesamcha shivaalaye||
Etani jyotirlingani, Saayam Praatah Patennarah|
Sapta Janma Kritam papam Smaranena Vinashyati||

The twelve Jyotirlingas are so well described in the above shloka along with the power of shloka to give nirvana. Somnaath is the first amongst the twelve Jyotirlingas which every devout Hindu wishes have darshan. We had already had darshan of Vaidyanath, Tryambakam, Bheema Shankar and Grishnesh Jyotirlingas and Somnaath we will be doing now. It was the most befitting end to our first tour of Gujarat.

Dwarka to Somnaath is 237.5 km. and it takes approximately 4.5-5 hour to reach Somnaath from Dwarka via Porbandar. Porbandar is coastal city of Gujarat and District head quarter of Porbandar district. The lanes and by-lanes are dotted with ages old and brand new temples. But we chose to visit two sites for which Porbandar if famous “Gandhi ji’s birth place” and “Sudama temple”. Sudama ji was the friend of Lord Krishna. We grew up listening to the tales and folklores of their friendship. Since we did not make night halt at Porbandar thus had to go to these two places skip the beach and rest of the many worth visiting places.

The market was bustling with activity, roads were narrow thus it took quite some time to be out of the city area. We wanted to reach Somnaath before evening prayer time, so that we could get the darshan of lord Shiva the deity of Somnaath and also witness the light and sound show of the temple.

On the way we visited many temples which had their own history, and each temple had different architect influenced by then rulers, some preserved very nicely some begging for attention from ASI.
As the lunch time was approaching we told our driver to take us to an eatery which serves authentic food from that part of Gujarat. Thus we were taken to an eatery by the road side which could accommodate at least 100 patrons at a time. Vegetables were kept ready for lunch and roti were made fresh as per order. Chas was served in tall glasses and by spending just 30 rupees one could get a liter of chas. Spotlessly clean, hygienically cooked food in a kitchen where one could see ladies cooking by fire wood.

Being curious by nature I asked the owner that he has such good reputation amongst locals as well as visitors, so why not have a good air-conditioned, modern eatery? Well I am satisfied with what I have now, because in this place rich or poor both can enjoy food, where as in the place you suggest only rich will come and I do not want that, Period. I was duly chastised and enlightened. He was so correct and astute about his thinking. What an amazing meal of freshly made Bajara (Millet) roti on chulla (fire wood cooking gives a wonderful taste to Bhakri which one cannot get on gas or electric stove), served with generous amount of homemade butter, variety of vegetables and chas.

Normally one bajara roti would have been enough but the aroma of fresh roti and it’s awesome taste with butter made us order the second one. Yes we finished it and knew we had over eaten, so not dinner required. Indian hospitality is famous worldwide, but I feel Gujarati people serve with so much open heartedness and love that it floors one completely.
Having our fill we started off and our next stop was Somnaath. Journey from Dwarka to Somnaath was thrilling, joyous and relaxing. The sea view, the thin strips of sand running in sea, occasional drizzle, flocks of birds hovering over sea and the golden fields with ripe paddy crop showed us how much nature has to offer and how much variation it can have with in the distance of few kilometers.

We reached Somnaath by 4pm. Kokilaben resort is by seaside and all rooms have a balcony giving a perfect view of sea. It was time to enjoy the beauty of sea and rest a for a while before evening Aarti starts in temple.
Since mobile, cameras and any leather items were not allowed in the temple so we left all in room and headed for the temple which is 5 minutes walking distance from our resort. In fact we could see the temple from our room.

Long but orderly queue ensured that everyone gets a chance to pray. The area in the temple as well as outside is very well maintained and plenty of space is available for resting and praying at peace.
Somnaath is first of the twelve “Jyotirlingas” Hindus revere and wish to visit. The temple is situated by the side of sea in Saurashtra. Vast blue sea and its splashing waves, mingled with the chanting of mantras, sound of blowing conch, cymbal, bells, is an experience altogether different, almost ethereal, and one just does not want to leave that place.

Soaking in the aura of temple gave me feeling of calmness. Time was approaching for the light and sound show thus we headed towards the direction of open air auditorium.

The show was very good. The whole narration was an amalgamation of religious beliefs, mythology and history. Few things in today’s worlds were a bit too farfetched and to me were more of mythological than truth. But history was narrated correctly and perfectly. The colorful light falling on different parts of temple and the sea making splashing sound behind us was too surreal.

The actual era when this temple was first constructed is not documented but mention is found that after first destruction of the temple by invaders, the second time it was built some times in 649 C.E
Whatever may be age and era of construction, Somnaath temple holds venerated place in all Hindu hearts.

Somnaath temple was destroyed by invaders innumerable times and it lay in ruins till Sardar Vallabh Bhai Patel started the project of building it in old chalukya style and restoring it to the glory it deserved.  The boundary of the temple is lined with Banastambh (Arrow pillars) which are the protectors of the temple and also indicators that this is the first land mass (Indian) in North from South Pole (The longitude and the latitude are also mentioned in the inscription on the Banastambh.
Somnaath is primarily a holy place for Hindu devotees and one can see many foreign tourists flocking here either due to holy tourism or simply to soak in the peace and tranquility that this place offers.

From the resort we got such a beautiful view of sea, sunset, fishermen returning after their catch of the day and some going to sea and spreading their fishing nets. It was a full pacakage deal as i call it. sea, sunrise and sunset, Oldest Jyotirlinga darshan. What more coulkd I have asked for.

We proceeded to our last stop Rajkot and on the way went to innumerable historically and religiously important places. 

Man proposes, God disposes. Outbreak and epidemic of swine flu prevented us from entering the city as we did not want to be caught by flu, thus spent the whole day at airport in Rajkot, with face masks on face and prayers in heart to the Almighty to send us back home healthy. Lord Shiva answered our prayers and we landed in Mumbai without being infected.

Blessed are those who get a chance to visit Dwarka and Somnaath. I thank my children Namita, Uday, Saurabh, Indira for the logistics and other help. I and my husband enjoyed this Gujarat visit. God willing we will go for the second Gujarat visit some times.


Thankyou Gujarat and the Gujarati people for such a rich, satisfying and wonderful experience.
The Sea just After Sunset

Tuesday, 15 December 2015

Glimpse Of Gujarat Part:4 Dwarka and Beyt Dwarka/गुजरात दर्शन :४ द्वारका




What we saw on the way to Dwarka was an eye opener. The devotion towards Lord Krishna, the philanthropy, the faith and the orderly way of the processions of scores of people coming from all part of Gujarat, yet no traffic jams, no unruly behavior or any untoward incident, was self-explanatory to the life style of people of Gujarat in general.

Holi the festival of colors was  just two days away and people from all over Gujarat were thronging to Dwarka to welcome Lord Krishna and Rukmani along with Radha and play Holi with them. This is the tradition going for centuries and people go on foot carrying palki (palanquin) of Lord. Every 1-2 km. camps with medical facility, fresh fruits, water, and food could be spotted.

We stopped at one such camp and despite of telling that we are travelling by car and those who are braving sun and long walk require the juicy watermelon they were serving, they requested us to partake their offering saying it is Lords Prasad, do have it. Their love and selfless service floored us.

The 6 hour drive was as enjoyable as it could get. As far as possible, I prefer road journey to rail or plane, as I get to see the county side, interact with local people, learn about their culture and of course have the local food.

Some parts were dry and parched but some stretches where rain God smiles more,  we could see paddy field and coconut grooves. Birds local as well as migratory live in peaceful coexistence with human.

The desire to reach Dev Bhoomi Dwarka was so intense that we decided not to stop for lunch and make do with the fruits and other eatables we were carrying.

The county side is dotted with wind mills and each and every village gets electricity 24x7. Amazing achievement by Gujarat Govt. and visionary then CM Mr. Narendra Modi! I am an apolitical person thus can appreciate good work and criticize wrong doing without hesitation. Proof of the prosperity due to good roads and wind energy is in seeing this place.

The sea wind started blowing through the open window of car indicating approaching of Dwarka. Some people say sea route (Ferry) would reduce the travel time, but then how can one see the marvel of nature and mankind if taking shortcuts??  To be a tourist and a visitor is different. I want to be a visitor, imbibing every bit the place has to offer.

Dwarka is situated by the Arabian Sea and the whole place gives a feeling of calm and satisfaction
Our hotel was just next to the platform situated by the sea side. The view was amazing. May be my faith makes me biased but I did feel some divine, positive energy in the cluttered, lanes and by lanes of this place.

The huge platform by the seaside gives a resting place under the stars to the devotees, tourists, and people who love listening to the symphony of sea under the watchful eyes of stars from above. No body disturbs other, here life is as peaceful as it can get. It was a pleasant surprise to see shlokas of Geeta inscribed on the stones mounted on the pillars rather than politicians name being in plaques.
   

Nice vegetarian lunch and good rest invigorated our energy and we were ready to go to have darshan of Dwarka Dheesh (Doors of temple open by 4pm). Though preparation for Holi festival were in full swing yet everything was very orderly, queuing up after entering from Swarga Dwaar (Door to heaven) to exit from Moksha Dwaar. We had nice darshan while the evening Aarti (prayers) were going on. Since it was past 6 pm the boat ride to Gomati River was stopped for the day, but then that gave us a chance to quench our thirst of having darshan again. Such is the attraction of that place that one does not want to leave.


Till now I did not even notice the beautiful carvings, pillars, and the huge Pataka (Flag) atop the highest point of (170 feet) of the temple. (It was just Hare Krishna, Hare Krishna, Krishna Krishna Hare Hare)

The changing lights of the temple façade, the flowing Pataka, the chanting of hymns, all add to the mystic glory of the temple and its surrounding.


My heart was saying please stay here, but we had to go to Byet Dwarka the next day and the driver had to take good rest thus we left and sat by the seaside to enjoy the breeze and beauty of splashing waves of Arabian sea.

To go to Byet Dwarka one has to travel almost 40 km, public transport is available till jetty, from there we had to take ferry for Beyt Dwarka. The co-existence of Mosque and Lord Krishna abode in the sma small island is indicative of unity in diversity in Hindustan (India).


The flock of hundreds of sea birds, huge waves rocking the ferry and the birds eating out from our hand was an amazing experience. I was too excited and once again the child within me was awakened, I fed the birds popcorn, I shrieked when they came too near, I clapped when they caught nuts thrown in air and I clicked as many phots as I could. I was mesmerized.




Getting down from ferry we hailed an auto to go to the temple which was on the height and 1-2 km away. It was very bright and hot so the to and fro auto.

The temple is so serene, beautiful place, exquisite carving, the architect of golden era of this place cannot be described in words. One has to see to understand the aura of the place and appreciate it.
Surprisingly there were no priests (agents of God as I call them) harassing the visitors and faithful. Certain fixed number of people are allowed turn by turn and given a tour of the place and one is free to worship, pray for as long one wants. Everything is maintained by the temple trust, no charges are levied for any services rendered.

Photography inside is not allowed, but then who wanted to spend time in taking picture in such a place? Certainly not me, I wanted to see every minute thing, listen to the person guiding us through the temple premise and pray to Lord for prosperity and peace.

Second visit to Dwarka is in my mind and I intend to spend a week there, exploring the area and learning about the history and archeological facts of the city, Dev darshan being integral part of the visit. Lord Krishna I was besotted by you since childhood. I feel privileged that I could visit this Dev Bhoomi, one of the Chardhaams with my husband.

Being one of the four Dhaams (lords residing place) this place boasts of many centuries old temples. It is said that after Byet Dwarka one must visit Radha and Rukmani temple. 


This completed our parikrama of Dwarka.
How can I go away from sea side without watching sunset (being in west sunset could be seen by seaside very nicely) thus the evening was spent near Shiva temple and we feasted our eyes to a beautiful sunset with fishing trawlers in the sea and huge waves splashing the rocks.



Tomorrow we have to leave early in the morning for Somnath and on the way see all the temples and listen to the fables, the temples in this district are many centuries old and have their own history.

http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/10/glimpse-of-gujarat-part-2-nirona-and.html
http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/09/glimpse-of-gujrat-part-1-bhuj-and.html
http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/12/glimpse-of-gujarat-part-3-mandvi.html

On the parting note: To all those who believe and propagate that Lord Krishna had 16800 wives, well it is a misconstrued story. Lord saved on the of Narhar Chaturdashi (Narak Chaturdashi) the 16000 ladies imprisoned by Cruel King Narhar (also called Rakshasa Narhar) and they regarded Lord Krishna as their savior and Like their husband. Krishna never married so many wives. He had Rukmani and Satyabhama (and according to different holy books 6 more) as wife. Radha was an ardent devotee and took an oath of taking Lord as her husband and never married. She devoted her life to Krishna thus is worshipped with Krishna.

Saturday, 24 October 2015

Glimpse Of Gujarat Part 2 : Nirona and White Rann Of Kutch/गुजरात दर्शन :२ निरोना और कच्छ का रान


Enjoying the cool breeze and view owhite rann at sunset time
Our Bhunga at night
The tour of Kutch region continues from Bhuj to Rann of Kutch. Having seen most of the land marks of Bhuj, we started next day by road to Rann of Kutch by 6 am, because we wanted to see the art and craft village “Nirona”, (one of the amazing example of mundane village life and tribal art converted to tourist attraction and artifact collection center), and reach Dhordo by lunch time, else would have risked hunger pangs till teatime. My camera started playing tantrum and clock went haywire in White Rann. If that is the effect on camera. So in some pictures the time is not correct. Author regrets this.

Nirona is almost an hour journey from Bhuj. We had breakfast at a roadside eatery, serving piping hot Dosa, Urd Dal vada, sambhar and finger licking chutney. What we look in these eateries is hygiene, and yes it was spick span, serving food in well cleaned utensil, bottled water and freshly cooked food. After eating a sumptuous breakfast and filter coffee we proceeded for Nirona.
Nirona village looked like any other village of India, cluttered with houses, un-asphalted road but very neat, clean place with very polite and smiling inhabitants. Our guide took us to the house of Khatri’s, a family proficient in Traditional Rogan Art. This form of painting is almost 300 yrs. old and is done by a single family in whole of India “The Khatri Family”. Gafoorbhai Khatri revived this dying art and made sure all family members learn it, so that that the mistake done by earlier generations, due to which it almost disappeared, is not repeated again.
A delicate art form, Rogan art requires making Rogan from castor oil, making colors diligently at home. This painting is done by drawing thread of paint by a 6 inches iron rod and making intricate designs using just fingers and rod holding the color thread. An amazingly beautiful art  but expensive. These paintings are surely collectors’ items. US President Mr. Obama was presented Rogan Art’s Kalpataru painting by Indian Prime minister Mr. Narendra Modi. Gafoorbhai is a national award winner and teaches children of village this art hoping one day one more family will take to this art. He does not market his product from any outlet except his house. For more detail information all art lovers can go the Web : www.traditionalroganart.com or contact him by e-mail traditionalroganart@gmail.com.
Next was the house of a family making chimes and other artifacts from copper, These families used to make bells for cows and other herd animals in earlier days but now they have moved ahead in life to create beautiful artifacts using their experience. They are always happily willing to give demonstration to the visitors. The chimes are very intricate in design and are from tiny to large size, some even creating notes of Indian music. We purchased few of these items as they were affordable, not too expensive.
The ladies do embroidery and glass work which are really eye catching and showcase the tradition of the village.
Lastly we went to a poorest looking area, here wood work using traditional tools was being done and coloring was done by natural pigment collected by the family patriarch, as they have the experience to how and when collect the pigment. Amazing knowledge of nature these people have got. I did purchase few rolling pins and ladles.

Though they have an opening now to sell their wares in Kutch festival, and to tourist coming to their village, they yet require some marketing and business experts to help them in their business. Hope one day they see their business flourishing.

From Nirona it was a long journey to Kutch, there are no shops, hotels on the way, so best is to pack some food and water. It was pretty arid with rare green patches here and there. Our guide told us rain is good only once in two years. We saw some amazing whirl winds, blowing the dry soil like a cone, but none was big enough to cause danger. Mid way to Dhordo, pass has to be taken from authorities for the entry and stay.

On entering our resort Gateway to Rann at Dhordo we were flummoxed by the luxurious bhunga (place to stay as it is called in local language) in hut form made using maximum natural resources. This is a place to see modernity in association with nature. The decoration of the reception hall is done using traditional natural pigment in local art form. The resort was made by Gujarat Govt. and made into a trust then handed over to the Dhordo village for running it smoothly. Local people got jobs, and government interference got eliminated. Spotlessly clean, well maintained, four sumptuous vegetarian meals are served. This place I could have stayed for days together. Apart from Gate way to Rann there are other resorts equally beautiful.
After resting we headed to see the Desert!!!
But I find no sand. Where is the desert? Oh look ahead it is not the usual sandy desert but Salt desert. It was a stunning view, just breath taking view. I just stood there to gape at the marvel of nature. It was whiteness spread everywhere, look left; look right or look just straight ahead it was salt, salt and salt. I could have never imagined in my wildest dream also that the great beauty salt holds in beautifying the nature. For me till then salt was an important ingredient of a savory dish.
The sun was not yet set so the white sunlight was making the salt shine like pure silver. 
There were local artists playing Guajarati folk music and singing melodies. Colorfully decorated camels were dotting the salt desert. We preferred to explore the area on foot, like hordes of other people.
As the sun started moving towards the horizon, the color of the salt started changing from white, to golden color. I was awestruck with the pure golden hue of the salt. 
Camera focused on the sandy desert we waited with baited breath for the next moment, when sun dips little further and gets a red hue. Lo and behold the whole area turned to red and orange shade as if some magic had occurred. Or as a second thought is it not magic of nature? We may make wonderful, amazing wonder of the worlds but nobody can even mimic this marvelous magic of nature. Why I say this? Well wait for a moment for I am enjoying the orange red hue to change and surprise me further.

The sun started moving down the horizon and the salt desert started getting darker shades of red, almost blood red color. I even forgot to take photograph at this moment because I did not want camera to come in between me and nature. Finally the sun started to disappear from the horizon and darkness of very dark shade of red, and then complete black spread around. But at this moment also the salt seems to be saying “Even the night cannot make me completely black I will retain my shine in every hue and color.


In this dance of colors of setting sun on salt we completely forgot the east side of desert! Wow! Wow! Wow! The moon had risen from east and the soft-golden-light of moon was making the east side of salt to shine like pure gold. It was pure magic of nature (Yes I am guilty of repeating myself. But nature’s magic is pure magic no other name for it). West side of desert almost black, east side shining with soft golden hue, no camera can capture with complete purity this marvelous aspect of Rann of Kutch, except the eyes. I kept on looking from my right to left and left to right, till my neck started protesting and husband started dragging me off to the waiting taxi. I promised myself I will come here tomorrow again to take some photographs. It gives me an unexplainable pleasure even now, when I think of that place.

Back into the bhunga we freshened up and were going for dinner when we heard the melodious music and songs sung by music troupe of the village. Some of their instruments were a part and parcel of their heritage and culture. Ghado, Ghamelu, Morchang are some of them. Ghadu is earthen pot rest are metallic. Some are used as domestic pots as well as musical instruments. They are made by the artisans of the village in such a manner that their sound can be heard till 1km. without sound enhancement system. We thoroughly enjoyed the folk music and songs. It was the time for dinner and siesta, for next day was another busy day.
Music Troupe In Gate way resort
We started early in the morning for Kalodungar. 
On the way to Kalodungar we saw local people making Khawa (Concentrated semi dry milk) from their dairy produce. I must compliment the people of Gujarat for their maintenance of cleanliness and hygene.
Khawa being made
The name of this place is derived from the fact that  the hillocks were bereft of trees so the color of soil used to give it black (Kalo in Gujarati) hue, thus the name Kalodungar. Now it is no longer pure Kala (Black). Gujarat govt. has gone on plantation drive and you can see greenery around, yet the soil color does give the black color to hillocks, as if justifying the name. The view of salt desert is yet beautiful from here. We were told by the BSF personal staying there that sunrise and sunset give amazing view of desert from there. May be next time I replied.
I do not know of the scientific reason but almost 300 meters on the way to Kalodungar the vehicles move even uphill without accelerating, they just get pulled up and push on the way downhill. May be due to some strong magnetic substance and magnetic field present there. It was thrilling to be in a car with driver sitting cross legged on the seat and the car being pulled up by some unseen force. We realized Kalodungar requires whole day to explore. Maps are displayed for benefit of visitors and as usual they try to keep the place very clean, despite of visitors littering the place with plastic bags and left overs.
Government of Gujarat makes sure children know about the heritage and history of Gujarat, thus in vacations school trips are arranged. One such group was sitting with their teachers, listening with rapt attention the lecture BSF personal was giving, imparting knowledge about the place, it’s historical and present day geopolitical importance. The best thing I liked was that when he asked “What is Pakistan to you all”, children replied enemy. He was quick to rectify them and said Pakistan is our neighbor not enemy. Catch them young to teach correct things are his moto. We were in also audience and thanked him for the excellent work which he was doing out of the line of his regular duties.
After darshan in the temple we started our trip back to Dhordo else we would miss our lunch and so would our driver.
Another visit to salt desert and a night full of music and dance we went to our bhunga for a good siesta. Rann of Kutch opens for visitors from October to march end. When the tide brings water the salt desert submerges under water to resurface in September.

After once in a life time experience in Dhordo, we will be heading back to Bhuj and after checking into hotel immediately to Mandavi another historically important and beautiful place.  


http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/09/glimpse-of-gujrat-part-1-bhuj-and.html
http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/12/glimpse-of-gujarat-part-3-mandvi.html
http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/12/glimpse-of-gujarat-part4-dwarka-and.html