Saurashtre Somanathamcha, Srisaile Mallikarjunam|
Ujjayinya Mahakalam, Omkaramamaleswaram||
Paralyam Vaidyanathancha, Dakinyam Bheema Shankaram|
Setu Bandhethu Ramesam, Nagesam Darukavane||
Varanasyantu Vishwesam, Tryambakam Gautameethate|
Himalaya Kedaaram, Ghrishnesamcha shivaalaye||
Etani jyotirlingani, Saayam Praatah Patennarah|
Sapta Janma Kritam papam Smaranena Vinashyati||
The twelve Jyotirlingas are so well described in the
above shloka along with the power of shloka to give nirvana. Somnaath is the
first amongst the twelve Jyotirlingas which every devout Hindu wishes have darshan.
We had already had darshan of Vaidyanath, Tryambakam, Bheema Shankar and
Grishnesh Jyotirlingas and Somnaath we will be doing now. It was the most befitting
end to our first tour of Gujarat.
Dwarka to Somnaath is 237.5 km. and it takes
approximately 4.5-5 hour to reach Somnaath from Dwarka via Porbandar. Porbandar
is coastal city of Gujarat and District head quarter of Porbandar district. The
lanes and by-lanes are dotted with ages old and brand new temples. But we chose
to visit two sites for which Porbandar if famous “Gandhi ji’s birth place” and
“Sudama temple”. Sudama ji was the friend of Lord Krishna. We grew up listening
to the tales and folklores of their friendship. Since we did not make night
halt at Porbandar thus had to go to these two places skip the beach and rest of
the many worth visiting places.
The market was bustling with activity, roads were narrow
thus it took quite some time to be out of the city area. We wanted to reach
Somnaath before evening prayer time, so that we could get the darshan of lord
Shiva the deity of Somnaath and also witness the light and sound show of the
temple.
On the way we visited many temples which had their own
history, and each temple had different architect influenced by then rulers,
some preserved very nicely some begging for attention from ASI.
As the lunch time was approaching we told our driver to
take us to an eatery which serves authentic food from that part of Gujarat.
Thus we were taken to an eatery by the road side which could accommodate at
least 100 patrons at a time. Vegetables were kept ready for lunch and roti were
made fresh as per order. Chas was served in tall glasses and by spending just
30 rupees one could get a liter of chas. Spotlessly clean, hygienically cooked
food in a kitchen where one could see ladies cooking by fire wood.
Being curious by nature I asked the owner that he has
such good reputation amongst locals as well as visitors, so why not have a good
air-conditioned, modern eatery? Well I am satisfied with what I have now,
because in this place rich or poor both can enjoy food, where as in the place
you suggest only rich will come and I do not want that, Period. I was duly
chastised and enlightened. He was so correct and astute about his thinking.
What an amazing meal of freshly made Bajara (Millet) roti on chulla (fire wood
cooking gives a wonderful taste to Bhakri which one cannot get on gas or
electric stove), served with generous amount of homemade butter, variety of
vegetables and chas.
Normally one bajara roti would have been enough but the
aroma of fresh roti and it’s awesome taste with butter made us order the second
one. Yes we finished it and knew we had over eaten, so not dinner required.
Indian hospitality is famous worldwide, but I feel Gujarati people serve with
so much open heartedness and love that it floors one completely.
Having our fill we started off and our next stop was
Somnaath. Journey from Dwarka to Somnaath was thrilling, joyous and relaxing.
The sea view, the thin strips of sand running in sea, occasional drizzle, flocks
of birds hovering over sea and the golden fields with ripe paddy crop showed us
how much nature has to offer and how much variation it can have with in the
distance of few kilometers.
We reached Somnaath by 4pm. Kokilaben resort is by
seaside and all rooms have a balcony giving a perfect view of sea. It was time
to enjoy the beauty of sea and rest a for a while before evening Aarti starts
in temple.
Since mobile, cameras and any leather items were not
allowed in the temple so we left all in room and headed for the temple which is
5 minutes walking distance from our resort. In fact we could see the temple
from our room.
Long but orderly queue ensured that everyone gets a
chance to pray. The area in the temple as well as outside is very well
maintained and plenty of space is available for resting and praying at peace.
Somnaath is first of the twelve “Jyotirlingas” Hindus
revere and wish to visit. The temple is situated by the side of sea in Saurashtra.
Vast blue sea and its splashing waves, mingled with the chanting of mantras,
sound of blowing conch, cymbal, bells, is an experience altogether different,
almost ethereal, and one just does not want to leave that place.
Soaking in the aura of temple gave me feeling of
calmness. Time was approaching for the light and sound show thus we headed
towards the direction of open air auditorium.
The show was very good. The whole narration was an
amalgamation of religious beliefs, mythology and history. Few things in today’s
worlds were a bit too farfetched and to me were more of mythological than
truth. But history was narrated correctly and perfectly. The colorful light
falling on different parts of temple and the sea making splashing sound behind
us was too surreal.
The actual era when this temple was first constructed is
not documented but mention is found that after first destruction of the temple by
invaders, the second time it was built some times in 649 C.E
Whatever may be age and era of construction, Somnaath
temple holds venerated place in all Hindu hearts.
Somnaath temple was destroyed by invaders innumerable
times and it lay in ruins till Sardar Vallabh Bhai Patel started the project of
building it in old chalukya style and restoring it to the glory it deserved. The boundary of the temple is lined with Banastambh
(Arrow pillars) which are the protectors of the temple and also indicators that
this is the first land mass (Indian) in North from South Pole (The longitude
and the latitude are also mentioned in the inscription on the Banastambh.
Somnaath is primarily a holy place for Hindu devotees and
one can see many foreign tourists flocking here either due to holy tourism or
simply to soak in the peace and tranquility that this place offers.
From the resort we got such a beautiful view of sea, sunset, fishermen returning after their catch of the day and some going to sea and spreading their fishing nets. It was a full pacakage deal as i call it. sea, sunrise and sunset, Oldest Jyotirlinga darshan. What more coulkd I have asked for.
We proceeded to our last stop Rajkot and on the way went to innumerable historically and religiously important places.
Man proposes, God disposes. Outbreak and epidemic of
swine flu prevented us from entering the city as we did not want to be caught
by flu, thus spent the whole day at airport in Rajkot, with face masks on face
and prayers in heart to the Almighty to send us back home healthy. Lord Shiva
answered our prayers and we landed in Mumbai without being infected.
Blessed are those who get a chance to visit Dwarka and
Somnaath. I thank my children Namita, Uday, Saurabh, Indira for the logistics
and other help. I and my husband enjoyed this Gujarat visit. God willing we
will go for the second Gujarat visit some times.
Thankyou Gujarat and the Gujarati people for such a rich,
satisfying and wonderful experience.
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| The Sea just After Sunset |
