Glimpse of Ethiopia: Part 4: Bahir Dar

 Factories and Green Pastures with happy beasts around

Happy in Gods place amongst Gods wealth

After reading the Novel ” River God” written by Wilbur Smith I had an intense urge to see the beautiful blue Nile. Had not even an inkling that I would ever go to Ethiopia and realize my dream. 

Visit to North-Western part of Ethiopia gave me a stunningly beautiful view of Nile and its waterfall but also the source of Nile.

Bahir Dar / Bahar Dar is the capital of Amhara region, and has the magnificent, huge water body The Tana Lake. This is the lake which is the source of Blue Nile. Since we were touring this part of Ethiopia in the month of May I was not expecting much greenery on the way from Addis to Bahir Dar, but came across enchantingly beautiful green expanses with cows, goats and sheep grazing totally undisturbed by the passing vehicles. In few places factories and power stations were appearing like scars on a beautiful skin, but then again these are the necessary evil for the development of any country.

Nicely laid good roads, thin traffic and moderate weather made our journey comfortable and enjoyable. The silence of the hills and the valley was disturbed by occasional vehicle passing by. Few old monasteries which one can access only on foot are on the hills dotting the road.

As we crossed some 50 km. the greenery gave way to rocky patches. It is sheer will power and capability to sustain the hardship that people live in this rocky, dry water deficient terrain. The color of soil and the rocks changed from brown to red, black and sometimes pure shining white, with green shrubs making appearance every now and then. It seemed as if God has splashed all colors at random.

One can go by flight also from Addis to Bahir Dar. We opted to go by road because it gives the opportunity understand the country and its culture by close interaction with locals in the country side. The few picture taken on the way to Debra Marcos and then from Debra Marcos to Bahir Dar will make one understand that why going by road makes the trip more interesting.

Since we had left Addis late we reached Marcos by 7 pm. Our driver refused to proceed further after dark citing safety reasons thus we made a halt at Marcos. Marcos has good hotels and food nice even for vegetarians like us. It also has a airodrome. 

Tired we hit the bed early and started our journey after  a sumptuous breakfast of eggs, sandwiches and coffee. The greenery started appearing again as there are enough water pockets I and around that area. Lemons, banana, sweet lime and many local fruit plantations, maize, wheat and many vegetable patches were making the whole area a pleasing site to the eyes. Vast green pasture with a huge rock in the middle was an incredible sight. We were told it is a tourist place but since we were getting late we did not stop there. I just wanted to be near the river of my dream.

Our hotel was almost at the lake side. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, staff courteous and lobby well decorated.

On inquiring about Tana Lake we were told by the person at the desk dump the bags in room and grab the cameras rush, last boat is to leave in 30 minutes.

We hired a boat and off we were to the Tana Lake. Oh my God! Is it a lake? Or  part of sea? I could not see the other end of lake. Big waves were splashing our boat. We were refreshed immediately by cool breeze.

The lake is 84 km. in length and 64 km. wide. There are small islands lush with green thick bush, huge trees and each has a monastery. Only few monasteries allow female entries thus we went to two of them which allowed ladies inside.  Males and female of all age are free to come and practice religion and become nun/monks in this monastery. It is not only human but animals and birds also find a peaceful sanctuary in these islands. 

Entry fee for the locals is 10 bir and for foreigners 100 bir. Until unless one is hard core church goer and plans to make this visit a pilgrimage one island visit is good enough, instead take a good round trip of the few islands and enjoy the boat ride.

The destruction done by Derg regime to the relics and the sacred caves, holy books was evident from the very first sight. Whatever is left is kept in the small rooms till a full museum comes up. These relics, paintings depict the tyranny of rulers and the great sacrifice made by religious people to keep the christtianity alive in the country.

As the waves start becoming high after 2-3pm. Thus the boatman wanted to finish the ride by that time. Small rocky patches has birds of different color size and species busy fishing and gulping their delicious fresh meal.

Till 2012 government of Ethiopia was using the boats captured from Derg and Italians thus they were not sturdy to take the might of big waves and strong flow.

And then came the time of reckoning. We were taken to the point from where the Blue Nile goes out from Tana Lake. It is beyond words to express how and what I felt. I was mesmerized and was thinking of next day when I will see the real Blue Nile. Thanks to Wilbur Smith for arousing this curiosity in me.

Second Island we visited had marshy land and thus Hemp was growing plentiful there. Boys were making boats from reeds, people crossing the river by the reed boats to reach the island while the river flowed peacefully as if saying we are made for each other. I was wishing the time to stop so that I can devour this moment till eternity.

This island is inhabited and has a small village with mango, guava, banyan and other trees. For an avid bird watcher it is the must visit place because water, plants of all size and shape provide peaceful safe sanctuary to birds. People in Ethiopia do not kill and other birds except fowl as they consider it a sacrilege. Their belief has proved a boon to avian life in Ethiopia.

Boatman was getting jittery so we gave in to his demand and started our boat ride back with happiness and satisfaction written large on our face. I had taken some amazing photos and of course memories to last my life time.

I would have loved to be here for one more day but our next day was again a long road trip to Gondar, a citadel of kingdom of king Yohhanes.

City of Bahir Dar is safe to be ventured in night. But it is advisable not to carry valuable (to be on the safe side).

Folk dances are held in small houses. The drifting music was very pleasing. The dingy bars are to be avoided. Drink in good hotels but keep a distance from local pubs. Good pizza, burger joints can be enjoyed, as many places serve excellent veg / non-veg pizza, club sandwiches aerated drinks and fragrant, world famous Ethiopian coffee.

An Ethiopian couple enjoying Beer

With a sumptuous dinner of pizza and coffee we saw the city in night and prepared for next day trip to Gondar and from Gondar to my beloved Nile.
More from this blog of beauty of Ethiopia.

http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/05/a-glimpse-of-ethiopia-lalibella-city-of.html http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/05/glimpse-of-ethiopia-part-2-axum-aksum.html http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/06/glimpse-of-ethiopia-part-3-mekhele.html

Glimpse Of Ethiopia: Part 3: Mekhele

War Memorial For The Martyr of Liberation Struggle

One of the stone carving showing the Liberation Struggle

It was our last leg of visit to Northern Ethiopia.We had seen some fabulous places, churches, excavation sites, steles and the now we were proceeding towards Mekhele from Axum by road.
The roads leading to Mekhele are very good, journey was fabulous as the weather God was on our side. Heavily clouded sky and hills along with the huge open expanse of land and green valley was breathtaking. 

Coffee shops with green grass spread all over the floor for coffee ceremony started dotting the road once we neared the city. Ethiopian coffee is of world fame and we stopped in one such shop for the fragrant thick black coffee.

We were told that this city is as important to Ethiopians as is the holy city of Lalibella. I kept on wondering why it is so. Once we neared the city I could see the difference between Axum and Mekelle. Construction work was going on in full swing and the difference between a city sitting atop an ancient civilization and a industrial city was quite visible.

Ethiopia due to very less population has large expanse of un-inhabited land. Due to lack of irrigation facilities even the fertile land lies fallow. Development had taken back seat during the regime of Col. Mengistu Haile Mariam, but now with the help of international agencies, private and corporate investors it is development is gaining pace.

Mekelle is Educational, Political, Cultural and economic hub in Northern Ethiopia. If Lalibella was a mecca for faithful and Axum for historians and archeologists, then Mekelle is the mecca for students, industrialists, investors and last but not least for all Ethiopians, because it has the TPLF war memorial. TPLF fought in tough conditions with the Derg regime to over it throw and end their tyranny.

This article is my humble effort to pay homage to the great leaders who liberated the people of Ethiopia from the tyray of Derg Regime.

The memorial gives a peek into the liberation struggle of Ethiopians and the sacrifices of the people connected with the freedom struggle. The steps leading to the ground of the museum give a majestic view of the memorial. 

On the open space near the memorial the struggle and the harsh conditions which the people endured are displayed carved on red stone.

Near the museum is displayed the message from Late.Prime Minister Meles Zwnavi and a short hidtroy of what we are to see in the museum. Museum is divided into many sections displaying photographs, weapons, equipments used during liberation struggle, and some charts and trophies of Ethiopia progress after leberation.

Pictures ranging from late 70’s to 1990 depicting the life under Derg regime, harsh conditions under which the TPLF worked relentlessly to achieve the goal of Ethiopians i.e. Liberation from the tyrannical Derg and the villagers helping the TPLF despite of danger of being caught and tortured ? killed the Derg followers. It was heart wrenching details of the torture which I had read in the history book written by a Proffessor of University of Adis Ababa. 

Painting made on sheep skin using natural paints are on display. The pain which Ethiopia feels even today remembering tose days is evident in these painting.

Display of the weapons which were used against the Ethiopians by their own “The People of Derg” who had come to power with slogan like"Farmers land to farmer" and "Job for all Etiopians",  and those which were used during fight for liberation are on display. I was totally confused by the emotions I felt in the museum of war memorial. Weapons are weapons, they are used to kill, yet one set was bringing smile on my face and the other set which were used by Derg brought anger and sadness.

What differentiated the two sets of weapons? One is used for oppression of poor, vulnerable and innocent people who had over thrown their Emperor Haile Sialse and treated him most disrecpfully even after slaughtering him to pieces. The other for their liberation from the oppression. As a tourist and one who stayed in Ethiopia for just two years could feel such strong emotions what the Ethiopians must be feeling while in the memorial? I was overwhelmed with emotions.

These equipments which were used during struggle wil make one understand that how determined the people of Ethiopia were to through out Derg regime, because to get weapons and equipment was next to impossible during tight scrutiny by Derg.

The goose bumps and the glint in the eye of the guide while telling the stories of TPLF was enough to make me understand why this city and the museum is so important to Ethiopians.

These charts and trophies display exude the pride Ethipians feel in what they have achieved short time. 

Those who can afford pay homage on the day of anniversary of liberation and those who cannot watch the ceremonies on TV ( All villages are not having electricity and every body there can not afford telivision) go to churches to pray for the people who sacrificed their life for the future generation.

People may be poor in Ethiopia but take great pride on their cultural heritage and rever Late Meles Zenavi and the TPLF people. 

Mekelle has churches, Palace of King Yohhanes IV who made Mekelle his capital after being crowned the King of Ethiopia.

Mekelle has university, technical education centers, cement and iron industries and many more are coming up. We did not get time to visit all the places but what we saw was enough to make me think highly of the people of Ethiopia, who are happy and free spirited. They will not accept oppression from any body, internal or external forces alike.

Tigriya is the main language of this place followed by Amharic.

Hotel Planet where we stayed had a good view, spacious and clean rooms. Since the internet is quite erratic and slow in Ethiopia thus the dismal Wi Fi and the mobile connectivity did not surprise us much. Hope after 3 years it must have improved.  The breakfast is buffet so we had a choice of fruits and toasts/eggs, but a la carte was not such pleasant experience as many vegetarian items in menu were not available( do not know about non-veg items). Being a vegetarian was certainly tough some times.

Over all experience was good the staff well trained and courteous.

This leg of tour was coming to end. I wanted to go to Afar region, (where Lucy was excavated), we could not go due to safety reasons. We had to fly next day to Addis and then drive down to Debrezyiet, to enjoy  the greenery and cool breeze, natural lakes and great weather

Auditorim For showing Audio-Visuals of Struggle for Liberation from Derg Regime