Tuesday 2 June 2015

Glimpse Of Ethiopia: Part 3: Mekhele

War Memorial For The Martyr of Liberation Struggle
One of the stone carving showing the Liberation Struggle
It was our last leg of visit to Northern Ethiopia.We had seen some fabulous places, churches, excavation sites, steles and the now we were proceeding towards Mekhele from Axum by road.
The roads leading to Mekhele are very good, journey was fabulous as the weather God was on our side. Heavily clouded sky and hills along with the huge open expanse of land and green valley was breathtaking. 

Coffee shops with green grass spread all over the floor for coffee ceremony started dotting the road once we neared the city. Ethiopian coffee is of world fame and we stopped in one such shop for the fragrant thick black coffee.


We were told that this city is as important to Ethiopians as is the holy city of Lalibella. I kept on wondering why it is so. Once we neared the city I could see the difference between Axum and Mekelle. Construction work was going on in full swing and the difference between a city sitting atop an ancient civilization and a industrial city was quite visible.
Ethiopia due to very less population has large expanse of un-inhabited land. Due to lack of irrigation facilities even the fertile land lies fallow. Development had taken back seat during the regime of Col. Mengistu Haile Mariam, but now with the help of international agencies, private and corporate investors it is development is gaining pace.
Mekelle is Educational, Political, Cultural and economic hub in Northern Ethiopia. If Lalibella was a mecca for faithful and Axum for historians and archeologists, then Mekelle is the mecca for students, industrialists, investors and last but not least for all Ethiopians, because it has the TPLF war memorial. TPLF fought in tough conditions with the Derg regime to over it throw and end their tyranny.
This article is my humble effort to pay homage to the great leaders who liberated the people of Ethiopia from the tyray of Derg Regime.
The memorial gives a peek into the liberation struggle of Ethiopians and the sacrifices of the people connected with the freedom struggle. The steps leading to the ground of the museum give a majestic view of the memorial. 


On the open space near the memorial the struggle and the harsh conditions which the people endured are displayed carved on red stone.

Near the museum is displayed the message from Late.Prime Minister Meles Zwnavi and a short hidtroy of what we are to see in the museum. Museum is divided into many sections displaying photographs, weapons, equipments used during liberation struggle, and some charts and trophies of Ethiopia progress after leberation.


Pictures ranging from late 70’s to 1990 depicting the life under Derg regime, harsh conditions under which the TPLF worked relentlessly to achieve the goal of Ethiopians i.e. Liberation from the tyrannical Derg and the villagers helping the TPLF despite of danger of being caught and tortured ? killed the Derg followers. It was heart wrenching details of the torture which I had read in the history book written by a Proffessor of University of Adis Ababa. 



Painting made on sheep skin using natural paints are on display. The pain which Ethiopia feels even today remembering tose days is evident in these painting.

Display of the weapons which were used against the Ethiopians by their own “The People of Derg” who had come to power with slogan like"Farmers land to farmer" and "Job for all Etiopians",  and those which were used during fight for liberation are on display. I was totally confused by the emotions I felt in the museum of war memorial. Weapons are weapons, they are used to kill, yet one set was bringing smile on my face and the other set which were used by Derg brought anger and sadness.


What differentiated the two sets of weapons? One is used for oppression of poor, vulnerable and innocent people who had over thrown their Emperor Haile Sialse and treated him most disrecpfully even after slaughtering him to pieces. The other for their liberation from the oppression. As a tourist and one who stayed in Ethiopia for just two years could feel such strong emotions what the Ethiopians must be feeling while in the memorial? I was overwhelmed with emotions.


These equipments which were used during struggle wil make one understand that how determined the people of Ethiopia were to through out Derg regime, because to get weapons and equipment was next to impossible during tight scrutiny by Derg.


The goose bumps and the glint in the eye of the guide while telling the stories of TPLF was enough to make me understand why this city and the museum is so important to Ethiopians.
These charts and trophies display exude the pride Ethipians feel in what they have achieved short time. 

Those who can afford pay homage on the day of anniversary of liberation and those who cannot watch the ceremonies on TV ( All villages are not having electricity and every body there can not afford telivision) go to churches to pray for the people who sacrificed their life for the future generation.
People may be poor in Ethiopia but take great pride on their cultural heritage and rever Late Meles Zenavi and the TPLF people. 
Mekelle has churches, Palace of King Yohhanes IV who made Mekelle his capital after being crowned the King of Ethiopia.
Mekelle has university, technical education centers, cement and iron industries and many more are coming up. We did not get time to visit all the places but what we saw was enough to make me think highly of the people of Ethiopia, who are happy and free spirited. They will not accept oppression from any body, internal or external forces alike.
Tigriya is the main language of this place followed by Amharic.

Hotel Planet where we stayed had a good view, spacious and clean rooms. Since the internet is quite erratic and slow in Ethiopia thus the dismal Wi Fi and the mobile connectivity did not surprise us much. Hope after 3 years it must have improved.  The breakfast is buffet so we had a choice of fruits and toasts/eggs, but a la carte was not such pleasant experience as many vegetarian items in menu were not available( do not know about non-veg items). Being a vegetarian was certainly tough some times.
Over all experience was good the staff well trained and courteous.
This leg of tour was coming to end. I wanted to go to Afar region, (where Lucy was excavated), we could not go due to safety reasons. We had to fly next day to Addis and then drive down to Debrezyiet, to enjoy  the greenery and cool breeze, natural lakes and great weather
Auditorim For showing Audio-Visuals of Struggle for Liberation from Derg Regime

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