Glimpse of Ethiopia Part: 6 Blue Nile and Its waterfalls

The excitement of going to Nile river side and see the water fall of Nile also called Niagara of Ethiopia was pushing my adrenaline to hilt. Reaching the base from where we had to walk few kilometers through the villages, farms spotting colorful birds every now and then.

 

Crossing the fields and the river flowing by the sides, we reached the Nile banks from there we took the boat and embarked further on foot to reach the water fall. The river flow has been regulated tostore water in dam for hydro electric project, thus by the villages where the river flows it is not too forceful flow. This river is the life line of all villagers and theis farms in the vicinitry.

 Nile looked so pure, peaceful and the clear water with a green reflection was too good to explain in words. The whole book of Wilbur Smith came alive in front of my eyes. Now I could literally picturize the queen with her entourage on the river Nile and the dust Axum where she went and made the tomb of her beloved.

Nile water flow is regulated because of the Millennium Dam being built in Ethiopia. Yet the flow was good. Locals tell that during rains the river flows mightily and in full force. Few pictures I post here will give you a fair idea of the beauty of Nile.

Ethiopians are very fond of groundnuts. We gave few packets to the boat man and the smile and bow he gave was extremely touching. These Ethiopians may be poor in materialistic sense but are very rich by heart. The happiness on the face of boatman when my husband gave to the him was delightful moment of the day.

The plentiful water and nice climate provides ideal climate for cultivation and farming. ‘Khet’( a leafy shrub which is highly intoxicating and almost every Ethiopian is addicted to it) is cultivated here and supplied to all corners of Ethiopia. Fresher are the leafs more price they fetch. River side of Nile has thick shrubs and big trees thus hosts lot many species of birds, we had a gala time clicking pictures of the scenery, birds, river and the locals. 

The long walk though strenuous did not tire us. We all enjoyed spotting the birds, hushing anybody who would make noise. I wished I could stay in this place for a day or two but there is no arrangement for the same.

One has to very careful about the wallet and mobiles as the same are flicked with very nimble fingers. Also you have to shoo away the urchins else they sometimes become nuisance in the peaceful sojourn.

As we had gone almost after 2 months of rainy season and the water were being stopped for storing water in Millennium dam the falls were not as spectacular as we saw in the pictures in magazines, yet they were awesome. A huge swinging bridge has been made over the river for commuting of people of two sides. The path from where the river goes to gorges and takes twists and turns to continue its journey through Ethiopia and finally to Egypt can be seen from the top.

My stay of Ethiopia became fruitful for I fulfilled my dream of yester years and what better way to witness the unsullied beauty with slight drizzle on us to relieve us from the strenuous walk. The drizzle became strong and for the fear of getting stuck in rain in a remote place with no electricity supply was scary so we had to leave. Unwillingly I dragged myself from the stupor and picked up my backpack and camera for the return journey taking as amny photos as possible to capture every aspect of the beautiful river, and its path.

On the way back from Nile we crossed many villages on the way back. Villager working on the loom producing fine cloth for church goers, deep old wells and small but neat and cozy houses of villagers gave us a fair idea of how hard life is for them yet how happy and welcoming they are. They offered us the feast they had prepared for their newly born ceremony we took some memorable pictures and went n our way.

 Excellent ventilation and saftey from rain in houses by using broken pitchers we an eye opener.

Some thing I noticed was that almost everybody had a mobile even if they had to go to 5 km. on foot to get its battery charged by paying 2 bir (a mighty some for a poor villagers). Go anywhere in Ethiopia you will find people merrily chatting on their mobile Hail Technology!!!

Last stop was to see palace but again our luck was not with us. It was closed for the day. After all church time is never to be compromised, be it for duty or pleasure. Emperror Haile Selassie is revered in Ethiopia next to God, as it is his foresight and vision that Unified Ethiopia as Republic, developed the strongest army in the region.

Back in Addis we stopped for dinner and then headed to the place we were staying Debre Zeyiet the town of volcanic lakes.
dates discrepancy in pictures is due to wring setting done in cameras:)

Glimpse Of Ethiopia Part:5 Gondar The City of Forts and Castles

After a refreshing visit to Tana lake and the night strolling in the city of Bahir Dar we departed for the city of forts and castles “Gondar”.  The road journey which would have ideally taken 4-5 hours was completed in 7 hours, reason the picturesque country side, sighting of exotic birds and the wonderful weather, which made us stop every now and then to take pictures or simply enjoy the scenery and the cool breeze.

Our driver was surprised at the enthusiasm we showed in taking the pictures of the rocks, houses under construction and the birds, because for them all these were part and parcel of daily life.

The rock in the shape of palm reminded me of the symbol of a political party in India. Road winding through the hills and valley gave the awe inspiring view.

Villagers make their houses with the locally available raw material which are of natural origin. Very few houses are made with stones/bricks. Eucalyptus tree trunks are used to make the basic structure of the house and the rice/ wheat straws along with the mud is used to make the walls. Thawed roof with opening at the top on which either old utensil or the big dried gourd’s shell with a hole is placed for the smoke to go out. The some what rich in village make tin roof and richer than them make whole house of tin a big status symbol.

Cooking is done mainly by firewood or coal as availability of gas is very scarce and expensive. Electricity has yet to reach to most of the villages, so is piped water supply.

Large birds were roaming in the farms as they are neither killed (religious belief) nor disturbed. Stopping by each and every village and interacting through our driver Daniel we reached Gondar by noon.

Weather was excellent as it in most part of the Ethiopia. There are excellent hotel in Gondar two of them at the hill top giving birds eye view of Gondar. We stayed in the hotel which was in the heat of city.

Gondar is in north of Tana Lake. Germans and Dutch have set their wineries and breweries. It is the courteous nature of the staff and the hospitality of every hotel in Ethiopia that was so genuine that one feels so welcome and happy. We had a quick lunch of club sandwiches and coffee and proceeded for our tour of the city.

Apart from many castles and forts it has the royal enclosure called Fasil Gehbbi, because of this it is also called Camelot of Africa. The water storage and supply system of those days in the forts and castels shows the foresightness of the Emperor fasilides.

Gondar as capital was established by emperor Fasilides as the capital first of Ethiopia. The city served as the agricultural and market center till it was burned and destroyed by invaders.

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Forts and castles of Gondar are world heritage and thus maintained jointly by Govt. of Ethiopia and World Heritage Center. Forts ranging from year 1600 onwards are maintained very nicely and give the insight to the rule of Fasilides, Iyasu, Yohhanes, and their descendants. 

Ravaged by invaders ruins are left. 

In twentieth century Italians used the palaces and forts which were in good condition as their garrison and the air strikes during war converted those places also to relics and ruins. 
How much truth is there I do not know but our guide told that Empress's jewellery and Emperor's was found by invadors and was plundered. People yet think that the walls of ruins have gold hidden in it.

These ruins make a picturesque sight amongst the green ground.Graet Ethiopian lions were kept by Emperors. Till late one last was left but now only emoty cage is there to be seen. In Hindi there is a saying " Yeh Khandhar saboot Hai, Ki Kila kabhi aabaad tha" meaning tese ruins are proof that the place was bustling with life and prosperity, how true it fits the description of this place.

Fasilides Bath and the Qustuam complex was built by Empress Mentewab in 18^th century. This place is home to annual ceremony for baptism and holy bathing. The trees with huge green canopy and wide spread roots provide shelter to visitors and look very picturesque.

Apart from this Ras Mikael Sehul’s palace and Debre Berhan Selassie Church of 18^th century are worth the visit.

The church was closed when we visited. We were too engrossed in going from one fort to other and taking photo.

Gondar is sleepy town at night. It is quite safe to go around till on does not venture into small ally and by lanes.

We had a long day ahead as we were going back to Addis in between visiting my dream river Blue Nile and water fall of Nile.