Having read the history (courtesy Dr. Hagos who got the
book from Addis University) of Ethiopia and its culture, archeological
heritage, importance as a Christian pilgrimage I was eager to see go for a tour
of Ethiopia. Would it be possible? I used to keep on thinking in the loneliness
of my house.
My dreams came true and we went around in Ethiopia and enjoyed
the lake of Bahirdhar, forts of Gondar, Rock churches of Lalibella and a lost
civilization of Axum (Aksum).
Ethiopia has been blessed by God with natural beauty.
Hills, lakes and vast expanse of land (left due to lack of agricultural as well
as industrial development and low population) are host to 964 (approx.) species
of birds and many other wild lives.
We started from Addis to Lalibella by plane. It was onset
of rainy season, so the hills were lush green and we were spared from the
Mediterranean sun blazing down on us. The cold weather was best for
sightseeing. What I saw was beyond my imagination or what I thought I would see
in Lalibela and rest of the places we visited.
If Lalibela is called the city of churches then Axum has
a rich history of the kingdom of the golden era of Ethiopia. The present
government is trying hard to continue the archeological digging, dating and
cataloging the historical facts and remains found there which have been left
unfinished due to untimely demise of a German, an Archeology scholar who was
leading the team of archeologists in Oxum. If Lalibela is pilgrimage to the
faithful Oxum is the pilgrimage to the historians and archeologists.
This article I am just dedicating to Lalibella. A journey
to Oxum and its rich history will be followed in other article albeit mainly
with pictures and less with words.
I would really suggest that even if one is neither a
faithful nor a historian (like me), should visit Lalibela because its lush
green hills, clouds floating by them and cool climate, which provide the much
sought for solace from hectic life. The untouched pristine beauty, calm and
quite environment is an absolute bliss. A treasure for those who are interested
in going through history and also for the faithful I would say this country of
ancient churches is a must visit.
There are budget hotels as well as very good luxury hotels with very good clealiness and hygine, and a very courteous staff.
Tourist buses or individual taxis can be hired alongwith guides to take you around lalibela.
The churches and the museum give an insight to the rich
cultural past of Ethiopia and the acute interest and knowledge of architect of
that time ruler of Lalibela. We had some difficulty throughout the visit due
to our food habits but all those who are non-vegetarians and par-take beef even
the food is heavenly (as told to us by our friend Derez).
Since our friend was also not too proficient in English
and I could not comprehend most of the thing he said thus cannot give the
factual account of the places but the pictures would summarize what I cannot by
words.
I would desist from putting any historical facts as this
article is not about history but a window to those who want to visit this
beautiful country or if cannot visit, can get a peek through my humble effort
of photography.
It is claimed that baptism of Christ was done in
Lalibella and the first church was built in “Lalibela Ethiopia”. Whatever may
be true (I am not a historian), what I saw there was awe-inspiring.
The churches carved out of single rock and having exquisite
design and architect, interconnecting of the churches through the pathways made
by cutting the rocks.
Church 20-30 meters below the ground where only the cross
made on the roof is visible from the ground level. (It seemed as if cross was
carved on a rock, in my widest dream also I could not imagine that it was the
top of a very tall structure which had its base deep below the ground.
Once I saw Lalibella I understood why it is called a city
of Rock Churches.
It is amazing that in the era when there were no modern
tools and machineries how exquisitely these churches were carved using chisel
and other hand equipment. The symmetry in the architectural design is
stupefying.
The then king of Lalibela had commissioned these
churches and brought this beautiful hill station in the map of holy city for
the faithful.
These churches are not merely a place of tourist
attraction. They are yet used as sacred place of worship, faithful flock in
thousands clad in white shroud, walking from distant places with their small
bible clutched in hand and rosary in the other hand.
The churches are maintained neat clean and have pin drop
silence adding to the mysterious existence of these churches in hilly, rocky
region.
They provide the solace from the daily life and are
perfect place for deep meditation and worshipping.
The convergence of people from all nearby village for
praying also act as social gathering, meeting between friends and relatives
take place during this congregation.
Monasteries are built in the most inaccessible place, on
the top of the rocky hill where one can reach either on foot or riding on
ponies.
In one of the church which has whole structure 20- 30feet
below the ground with just the top bearing a cross on the ceiling visible from
ground level. In the peripherial rocks notch are kept, crudely preserved mummies of the two Italian nuns, who
passed away during their deep meditation hundreds of years before.
All these cluster of churches in Lalibella are called
Rock churches and are now declared World Heritage.
Ethiopia being a poor country is not self-sufficient
technologically as well as monetarily to maintain these sites thus World heritage
and archeological department is doing the digging of the sites, renovation and
maintenance.
By the time this article is published many changes for
good must have come. An amazing journey had just started, it will continue to Axum, Mekhele, Gondar, and many cities of Ethiopia.
