Saturday, 24 October 2015

Glimpse Of Gujarat Part 2 : Nirona and White Rann Of Kutch/गुजरात दर्शन :२ निरोना और कच्छ का रान


Enjoying the cool breeze and view owhite rann at sunset time
Our Bhunga at night
The tour of Kutch region continues from Bhuj to Rann of Kutch. Having seen most of the land marks of Bhuj, we started next day by road to Rann of Kutch by 6 am, because we wanted to see the art and craft village “Nirona”, (one of the amazing example of mundane village life and tribal art converted to tourist attraction and artifact collection center), and reach Dhordo by lunch time, else would have risked hunger pangs till teatime. My camera started playing tantrum and clock went haywire in White Rann. If that is the effect on camera. So in some pictures the time is not correct. Author regrets this.

Nirona is almost an hour journey from Bhuj. We had breakfast at a roadside eatery, serving piping hot Dosa, Urd Dal vada, sambhar and finger licking chutney. What we look in these eateries is hygiene, and yes it was spick span, serving food in well cleaned utensil, bottled water and freshly cooked food. After eating a sumptuous breakfast and filter coffee we proceeded for Nirona.
Nirona village looked like any other village of India, cluttered with houses, un-asphalted road but very neat, clean place with very polite and smiling inhabitants. Our guide took us to the house of Khatri’s, a family proficient in Traditional Rogan Art. This form of painting is almost 300 yrs. old and is done by a single family in whole of India “The Khatri Family”. Gafoorbhai Khatri revived this dying art and made sure all family members learn it, so that that the mistake done by earlier generations, due to which it almost disappeared, is not repeated again.
A delicate art form, Rogan art requires making Rogan from castor oil, making colors diligently at home. This painting is done by drawing thread of paint by a 6 inches iron rod and making intricate designs using just fingers and rod holding the color thread. An amazingly beautiful art  but expensive. These paintings are surely collectors’ items. US President Mr. Obama was presented Rogan Art’s Kalpataru painting by Indian Prime minister Mr. Narendra Modi. Gafoorbhai is a national award winner and teaches children of village this art hoping one day one more family will take to this art. He does not market his product from any outlet except his house. For more detail information all art lovers can go the Web : www.traditionalroganart.com or contact him by e-mail traditionalroganart@gmail.com.
Next was the house of a family making chimes and other artifacts from copper, These families used to make bells for cows and other herd animals in earlier days but now they have moved ahead in life to create beautiful artifacts using their experience. They are always happily willing to give demonstration to the visitors. The chimes are very intricate in design and are from tiny to large size, some even creating notes of Indian music. We purchased few of these items as they were affordable, not too expensive.
The ladies do embroidery and glass work which are really eye catching and showcase the tradition of the village.
Lastly we went to a poorest looking area, here wood work using traditional tools was being done and coloring was done by natural pigment collected by the family patriarch, as they have the experience to how and when collect the pigment. Amazing knowledge of nature these people have got. I did purchase few rolling pins and ladles.

Though they have an opening now to sell their wares in Kutch festival, and to tourist coming to their village, they yet require some marketing and business experts to help them in their business. Hope one day they see their business flourishing.

From Nirona it was a long journey to Kutch, there are no shops, hotels on the way, so best is to pack some food and water. It was pretty arid with rare green patches here and there. Our guide told us rain is good only once in two years. We saw some amazing whirl winds, blowing the dry soil like a cone, but none was big enough to cause danger. Mid way to Dhordo, pass has to be taken from authorities for the entry and stay.

On entering our resort Gateway to Rann at Dhordo we were flummoxed by the luxurious bhunga (place to stay as it is called in local language) in hut form made using maximum natural resources. This is a place to see modernity in association with nature. The decoration of the reception hall is done using traditional natural pigment in local art form. The resort was made by Gujarat Govt. and made into a trust then handed over to the Dhordo village for running it smoothly. Local people got jobs, and government interference got eliminated. Spotlessly clean, well maintained, four sumptuous vegetarian meals are served. This place I could have stayed for days together. Apart from Gate way to Rann there are other resorts equally beautiful.
After resting we headed to see the Desert!!!
But I find no sand. Where is the desert? Oh look ahead it is not the usual sandy desert but Salt desert. It was a stunning view, just breath taking view. I just stood there to gape at the marvel of nature. It was whiteness spread everywhere, look left; look right or look just straight ahead it was salt, salt and salt. I could have never imagined in my wildest dream also that the great beauty salt holds in beautifying the nature. For me till then salt was an important ingredient of a savory dish.
The sun was not yet set so the white sunlight was making the salt shine like pure silver. 
There were local artists playing Guajarati folk music and singing melodies. Colorfully decorated camels were dotting the salt desert. We preferred to explore the area on foot, like hordes of other people.
As the sun started moving towards the horizon, the color of the salt started changing from white, to golden color. I was awestruck with the pure golden hue of the salt. 
Camera focused on the sandy desert we waited with baited breath for the next moment, when sun dips little further and gets a red hue. Lo and behold the whole area turned to red and orange shade as if some magic had occurred. Or as a second thought is it not magic of nature? We may make wonderful, amazing wonder of the worlds but nobody can even mimic this marvelous magic of nature. Why I say this? Well wait for a moment for I am enjoying the orange red hue to change and surprise me further.

The sun started moving down the horizon and the salt desert started getting darker shades of red, almost blood red color. I even forgot to take photograph at this moment because I did not want camera to come in between me and nature. Finally the sun started to disappear from the horizon and darkness of very dark shade of red, and then complete black spread around. But at this moment also the salt seems to be saying “Even the night cannot make me completely black I will retain my shine in every hue and color.


In this dance of colors of setting sun on salt we completely forgot the east side of desert! Wow! Wow! Wow! The moon had risen from east and the soft-golden-light of moon was making the east side of salt to shine like pure gold. It was pure magic of nature (Yes I am guilty of repeating myself. But nature’s magic is pure magic no other name for it). West side of desert almost black, east side shining with soft golden hue, no camera can capture with complete purity this marvelous aspect of Rann of Kutch, except the eyes. I kept on looking from my right to left and left to right, till my neck started protesting and husband started dragging me off to the waiting taxi. I promised myself I will come here tomorrow again to take some photographs. It gives me an unexplainable pleasure even now, when I think of that place.

Back into the bhunga we freshened up and were going for dinner when we heard the melodious music and songs sung by music troupe of the village. Some of their instruments were a part and parcel of their heritage and culture. Ghado, Ghamelu, Morchang are some of them. Ghadu is earthen pot rest are metallic. Some are used as domestic pots as well as musical instruments. They are made by the artisans of the village in such a manner that their sound can be heard till 1km. without sound enhancement system. We thoroughly enjoyed the folk music and songs. It was the time for dinner and siesta, for next day was another busy day.
Music Troupe In Gate way resort
We started early in the morning for Kalodungar. 
On the way to Kalodungar we saw local people making Khawa (Concentrated semi dry milk) from their dairy produce. I must compliment the people of Gujarat for their maintenance of cleanliness and hygene.
Khawa being made
The name of this place is derived from the fact that  the hillocks were bereft of trees so the color of soil used to give it black (Kalo in Gujarati) hue, thus the name Kalodungar. Now it is no longer pure Kala (Black). Gujarat govt. has gone on plantation drive and you can see greenery around, yet the soil color does give the black color to hillocks, as if justifying the name. The view of salt desert is yet beautiful from here. We were told by the BSF personal staying there that sunrise and sunset give amazing view of desert from there. May be next time I replied.
I do not know of the scientific reason but almost 300 meters on the way to Kalodungar the vehicles move even uphill without accelerating, they just get pulled up and push on the way downhill. May be due to some strong magnetic substance and magnetic field present there. It was thrilling to be in a car with driver sitting cross legged on the seat and the car being pulled up by some unseen force. We realized Kalodungar requires whole day to explore. Maps are displayed for benefit of visitors and as usual they try to keep the place very clean, despite of visitors littering the place with plastic bags and left overs.
Government of Gujarat makes sure children know about the heritage and history of Gujarat, thus in vacations school trips are arranged. One such group was sitting with their teachers, listening with rapt attention the lecture BSF personal was giving, imparting knowledge about the place, it’s historical and present day geopolitical importance. The best thing I liked was that when he asked “What is Pakistan to you all”, children replied enemy. He was quick to rectify them and said Pakistan is our neighbor not enemy. Catch them young to teach correct things are his moto. We were in also audience and thanked him for the excellent work which he was doing out of the line of his regular duties.
After darshan in the temple we started our trip back to Dhordo else we would miss our lunch and so would our driver.
Another visit to salt desert and a night full of music and dance we went to our bhunga for a good siesta. Rann of Kutch opens for visitors from October to march end. When the tide brings water the salt desert submerges under water to resurface in September.

After once in a life time experience in Dhordo, we will be heading back to Bhuj and after checking into hotel immediately to Mandavi another historically important and beautiful place.  


http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/09/glimpse-of-gujrat-part-1-bhuj-and.html
http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/12/glimpse-of-gujarat-part-3-mandvi.html
http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/12/glimpse-of-gujarat-part4-dwarka-and.html