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| Prag-Mahal |
I have wanderlust and I have a strong desire to go to
different states of my country India to soak on the beauty, experience the
diversified culture and enjoy the local cuisine. Studying in different places
due to transferable job of my father kindled the keen desire to explore my
country. I used to tag along with my husband whenever it was possible to visit different places in India, where he used to go on official duty. But the serious
touring started once children and left they nest and husband retired.
We have travelled to Tamil Nadu, Kerela, Port Blair,
Rajasthan, Karnataka, and some parts of Andhra Pradesh. Kumaon being my birth
place I am in total love with, and have been to many parts of Kumaon. This blog
series is devoted to the picture presentation of the places we visited in
Gujrat in February 2015.
We wanted to be in more picturesque places and with the
rustic beauty of nature rather than places which offered concrete jungle of big
cities. After much deliberation it was decided that we should visit Bhuj, Rann
of Kutch, Dwarka and Somnath (places of natural beauty, historical and cultural
importance and of course last two being Hindu holy places, Dwarka is one of the Chardhaam).
Kutch is the place which has seen the devastating earth
quake in the year 2000. The remnant of city stand with the city rebuilt after
the earth quake. If Swami Narayan temple exhibits the splendor and peaceful
aura the nearby Sheesh Mahal, dilapidated remnants of Chateri, Prag Mahal and the
museum gives the insight to the rich culture and the grit of the people of this
place to rise from ashes.
After disembarking from train we took an autorikshaw, they are best mode of trasport to go in and around the city, when it is not too hot outside. Less expensive and least problem of parking. Do not allow yourself to be fleeced by taxi drivers at railway station. We had good luck to get Imran Bismil (+919175756627), an autorikshaw driver, whom we hired for the whole day to atke us around Bhuj. Great person, honest to the core and very careful driver who would go an extra mile for a good customer.
We started our visit from Prag Mahal which has a very old
history . It has a distinct touch of Gothic and Italian architect. It is a 19th
century marvel built by the ruler of that time. Part of it got destroyed due to earthquake
and is in the process of restoration. The by lanes are not so welcome due to congestion
and not so clean appearance, but once you reach the palace the neatness, quietness
and serenity astounds you. Well maintained, spotlessly clean this historical
place offers the insight to the life of the king and his kingdom. Apart from the Gothic architect and Italian interior decoration, the display here makes us understand the rampant sport killing, which was the major entertainment of the kings of those days. The guide also told us about the bravery of the king who killed the lions single handedly. This palace also has a huge display of paintings which depicts the culture of that era in Bhuj.
If you are sports to climbing 60-70 steps, then the top of the tower provides majestic view of the Bhuj city and the river flowing by.
From Prag Mahal we went to the Swami Narayan Temple,
which is a place to sit and admire the place, it's the architect, beauty, silence and
calm surroundings. It is amazing that despite large number of visitors and faithful
visiting this place daily the staff their manages to maintain pin drop silence
and spotlessly clean sanctum sanctorum as well as gardens and surrounding area.
Tranquility is synonymous to this place.
After praying and going around the temple our next stop
was Chattari, 1km. away from Bhuj. This is a cenotaph complex built of red stones in 1770
AD. Devastation stuck this place like others in 2001 earth quake. The polygonal
balconies have a strikingly beautiful, intricate carving. Much has been turned
to ruins but yet it is a great place to visit. I wish ASI had put boards with
information and some guards for the protection of this historical monument,
which was the resting place of kings and queens. Chattari means umbrella in
Gujarati. These were built to give shade to the remains of the departed kings
and queens. Our guide told us that these also used to be the place of
glorification of Sati in those days. It did get pretty hot and dry due to the
blazing sun, but then we were prepared with shades and water so went through
every nook and corner trying to grasp the history of this place. We were amazed
to see that even though the massive earth quake destroyed 90% of this great
historical monument, the place of worship, the statues of deities, were intact
without even a scratch. It was an amazing experiencing going through such a
marvel. Villagers nearby are pilfering the red stone and using them for
construction, boys and girls are scribbling their name and love messages, ASI
seems to be either unaware or oblivious to all these horrendous activities. Authorities
should raise huge walls around the monument, start taking entry fee and employ
people like it is done in Prag Mahal if this monument is to be preserved for
posterity.
The huge pond which stores water for the whole Bhuj was
relatively dry this time and the visit to pond and Aina mahal was postponed for
the next time in Bhuj. We were tired and hungry. Museum was at the top of itinerary so
we went to Bhuj Museum after having some cool coconut water.
I may sound repetitive but then I found it amazing that
despite such a rush of visitors, school children coming in hundreds on school
trip, the staff did not seems hassled and was polite and very accommodative. Answering
to the queries, welcoming with a warm smile and asking about our experience of
visit with polite "come and visit again".
The museum has artifacts in ground and first flour. No
lift. It is an old building which miraculously survived the earth quake. The quake
disemboweled the artifacts from their places, which have been restored to their
rightful place. The statues depicting the life of villagers from different
background and profession are so realistic that at first glance I took them to
be living human; reality dawned upon me when I saw that it was a glass
chamber not a space divided by glass. On inquiring I was told that an artisan
from Ahmedabad (I forgot the name) was commissioned by Then Chief Minister Mr.
Narendra Modi has made these literally living statues. First flour has stones having ancient civilisation incriptions,
volcanic stones, rocks with old inscriptions, coins of different era. The first
floor is mostly devoted to the art and craft of whole Bhuj. I could have spent
the whole day but had to leave as the time of closing was announced. Great place and superbly maintained
.
I must mention here that lunch in Gujrat is a gala fare. Eat the local fare and you will never regret. After hearty lunch we and our cabbie rested for an hour so that we can start afresh for out tour to Bhujodi village.
Bhujodi is approximately 9 km. from Bhuj. It is the
textile center of Kutch. Each village
surrounding this area has a unique art and craft form. Warli painting, delicate embroidery, hand and block prints, weaving, unique fibers of silk and
cotton and their hand woven cloth, wood craft, stone artifacts etc. What impressed me most was that to facilitate the business of the locals, an
art and craft village has been developed by Asha Purna group on the land given
by Gujrat Govt. The big hall with food and stay for two people is given to the
local people free of cost, so that they can exhibit and sell there articles without
worrying about the cost they would have incurred outside this place.
These weavers have their color making experts from village who make color from natural pigments. We had an oppurtunity to see the weaver weaving a sari with finest cotton fiber. At the first sight it seemed that the green and blue woven cloth is stole, but when the artisan said it is 6 meter sari which can pass through a ring, and demonstrated it by passing it through his ring (of ring finger) we stood still and silent due to amazement and respect for the amazing weavers of Bhujodi.
One should go well prepared for shopping to Bhujodi as it offers many exclusive things.
Construction of a huge museum was almost 90% done under
the guidance of the Chief Minister Mr. Narendra Modi. This museum is dedicated
to the freedom fighters of India. We were told that this museum will have a huge hall with audio-visual setup, to depict the freedom strugle of Indian from British rule. Outside the museum stand a huge
bust of Father of Nation Gandhi Ji. This is what I say is greatness of Mr.
Narendra Modi who respects people across the party line and gives due
recognition and the rightful place to our great leaders.
When and where we meet somebody, with whom we have had no
contact for long, is surprising and unpredictable. My student whom I taught in 12th standard and
had no contact then onwards, as everybody moves on with their busy life shouted
loudly mam and caught my waist from behind. It was a reunion of a wonderful kind with my
dear student Surabhi Kale; she had become an architect and is with the team of
architect of this museum. It was a double dose of pleasure for me as Seeing
your students rise to such heights gives real thrill and I got to see the
inside of yet to be completed museum. It is going to be a colossal, one of its
own kind of museum in India. Mr. Modi has a great vision.
On the way back we went to a drive to the surrounding of
the city. Saw the fortification wall made during king time with forts and
temples in between. We named it Wall of India, like Great Wall of China :) :). No it
is not as long but gives a good fortification to the city and army has taken
over it as it provided bird’s eye view of the whole Bhuj.
Tired but happy, satisfied and some appetite for the
historical monuments quenched we headed back to our hotel to freshen up before heading for another round of Gujrati Thali.
After a nice evening with Surabhi and remembering the old time in IAT over dinner, we packed our bags for next 3 days trip to Rann of Kutch.
