Glimpse Of Ethiopia Part:5 Gondar The City of Forts and Castles

After a refreshing visit to Tana lake and the night strolling in the city of Bahir Dar we departed for the city of forts and castles “Gondar”.  The road journey which would have ideally taken 4-5 hours was completed in 7 hours, reason the picturesque country side, sighting of exotic birds and the wonderful weather, which made us stop every now and then to take pictures or simply enjoy the scenery and the cool breeze.

Our driver was surprised at the enthusiasm we showed in taking the pictures of the rocks, houses under construction and the birds, because for them all these were part and parcel of daily life.

The rock in the shape of palm reminded me of the symbol of a political party in India. Road winding through the hills and valley gave the awe inspiring view.

Villagers make their houses with the locally available raw material which are of natural origin. Very few houses are made with stones/bricks. Eucalyptus tree trunks are used to make the basic structure of the house and the rice/ wheat straws along with the mud is used to make the walls. Thawed roof with opening at the top on which either old utensil or the big dried gourd’s shell with a hole is placed for the smoke to go out. The some what rich in village make tin roof and richer than them make whole house of tin a big status symbol.

Cooking is done mainly by firewood or coal as availability of gas is very scarce and expensive. Electricity has yet to reach to most of the villages, so is piped water supply.

Large birds were roaming in the farms as they are neither killed (religious belief) nor disturbed. Stopping by each and every village and interacting through our driver Daniel we reached Gondar by noon.

Weather was excellent as it in most part of the Ethiopia. There are excellent hotel in Gondar two of them at the hill top giving birds eye view of Gondar. We stayed in the hotel which was in the heat of city.

Gondar is in north of Tana Lake. Germans and Dutch have set their wineries and breweries. It is the courteous nature of the staff and the hospitality of every hotel in Ethiopia that was so genuine that one feels so welcome and happy. We had a quick lunch of club sandwiches and coffee and proceeded for our tour of the city.

Apart from many castles and forts it has the royal enclosure called Fasil Gehbbi, because of this it is also called Camelot of Africa. The water storage and supply system of those days in the forts and castels shows the foresightness of the Emperor fasilides.

Gondar as capital was established by emperor Fasilides as the capital first of Ethiopia. The city served as the agricultural and market center till it was burned and destroyed by invaders.

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Forts and castles of Gondar are world heritage and thus maintained jointly by Govt. of Ethiopia and World Heritage Center. Forts ranging from year 1600 onwards are maintained very nicely and give the insight to the rule of Fasilides, Iyasu, Yohhanes, and their descendants. 

Ravaged by invaders ruins are left. 

In twentieth century Italians used the palaces and forts which were in good condition as their garrison and the air strikes during war converted those places also to relics and ruins. 
How much truth is there I do not know but our guide told that Empress's jewellery and Emperor's was found by invadors and was plundered. People yet think that the walls of ruins have gold hidden in it.

These ruins make a picturesque sight amongst the green ground.Graet Ethiopian lions were kept by Emperors. Till late one last was left but now only emoty cage is there to be seen. In Hindi there is a saying " Yeh Khandhar saboot Hai, Ki Kila kabhi aabaad tha" meaning tese ruins are proof that the place was bustling with life and prosperity, how true it fits the description of this place.

Fasilides Bath and the Qustuam complex was built by Empress Mentewab in 18^th century. This place is home to annual ceremony for baptism and holy bathing. The trees with huge green canopy and wide spread roots provide shelter to visitors and look very picturesque.

Apart from this Ras Mikael Sehul’s palace and Debre Berhan Selassie Church of 18^th century are worth the visit.

The church was closed when we visited. We were too engrossed in going from one fort to other and taking photo.

Gondar is sleepy town at night. It is quite safe to go around till on does not venture into small ally and by lanes.

We had a long day ahead as we were going back to Addis in between visiting my dream river Blue Nile and water fall of Nile. 

Glimpse of Ethiopia: Part 4: Bahir Dar

 Factories and Green Pastures with happy beasts around

Happy in Gods place amongst Gods wealth

After reading the Novel ” River God” written by Wilbur Smith I had an intense urge to see the beautiful blue Nile. Had not even an inkling that I would ever go to Ethiopia and realize my dream. 

Visit to North-Western part of Ethiopia gave me a stunningly beautiful view of Nile and its waterfall but also the source of Nile.

Bahir Dar / Bahar Dar is the capital of Amhara region, and has the magnificent, huge water body The Tana Lake. This is the lake which is the source of Blue Nile. Since we were touring this part of Ethiopia in the month of May I was not expecting much greenery on the way from Addis to Bahir Dar, but came across enchantingly beautiful green expanses with cows, goats and sheep grazing totally undisturbed by the passing vehicles. In few places factories and power stations were appearing like scars on a beautiful skin, but then again these are the necessary evil for the development of any country.

Nicely laid good roads, thin traffic and moderate weather made our journey comfortable and enjoyable. The silence of the hills and the valley was disturbed by occasional vehicle passing by. Few old monasteries which one can access only on foot are on the hills dotting the road.

As we crossed some 50 km. the greenery gave way to rocky patches. It is sheer will power and capability to sustain the hardship that people live in this rocky, dry water deficient terrain. The color of soil and the rocks changed from brown to red, black and sometimes pure shining white, with green shrubs making appearance every now and then. It seemed as if God has splashed all colors at random.

One can go by flight also from Addis to Bahir Dar. We opted to go by road because it gives the opportunity understand the country and its culture by close interaction with locals in the country side. The few picture taken on the way to Debra Marcos and then from Debra Marcos to Bahir Dar will make one understand that why going by road makes the trip more interesting.

Since we had left Addis late we reached Marcos by 7 pm. Our driver refused to proceed further after dark citing safety reasons thus we made a halt at Marcos. Marcos has good hotels and food nice even for vegetarians like us. It also has a airodrome. 

Tired we hit the bed early and started our journey after  a sumptuous breakfast of eggs, sandwiches and coffee. The greenery started appearing again as there are enough water pockets I and around that area. Lemons, banana, sweet lime and many local fruit plantations, maize, wheat and many vegetable patches were making the whole area a pleasing site to the eyes. Vast green pasture with a huge rock in the middle was an incredible sight. We were told it is a tourist place but since we were getting late we did not stop there. I just wanted to be near the river of my dream.

Our hotel was almost at the lake side. The rooms were spacious and comfortable, staff courteous and lobby well decorated.

On inquiring about Tana Lake we were told by the person at the desk dump the bags in room and grab the cameras rush, last boat is to leave in 30 minutes.

We hired a boat and off we were to the Tana Lake. Oh my God! Is it a lake? Or  part of sea? I could not see the other end of lake. Big waves were splashing our boat. We were refreshed immediately by cool breeze.

The lake is 84 km. in length and 64 km. wide. There are small islands lush with green thick bush, huge trees and each has a monastery. Only few monasteries allow female entries thus we went to two of them which allowed ladies inside.  Males and female of all age are free to come and practice religion and become nun/monks in this monastery. It is not only human but animals and birds also find a peaceful sanctuary in these islands. 

Entry fee for the locals is 10 bir and for foreigners 100 bir. Until unless one is hard core church goer and plans to make this visit a pilgrimage one island visit is good enough, instead take a good round trip of the few islands and enjoy the boat ride.

The destruction done by Derg regime to the relics and the sacred caves, holy books was evident from the very first sight. Whatever is left is kept in the small rooms till a full museum comes up. These relics, paintings depict the tyranny of rulers and the great sacrifice made by religious people to keep the christtianity alive in the country.

As the waves start becoming high after 2-3pm. Thus the boatman wanted to finish the ride by that time. Small rocky patches has birds of different color size and species busy fishing and gulping their delicious fresh meal.

Till 2012 government of Ethiopia was using the boats captured from Derg and Italians thus they were not sturdy to take the might of big waves and strong flow.

And then came the time of reckoning. We were taken to the point from where the Blue Nile goes out from Tana Lake. It is beyond words to express how and what I felt. I was mesmerized and was thinking of next day when I will see the real Blue Nile. Thanks to Wilbur Smith for arousing this curiosity in me.

Second Island we visited had marshy land and thus Hemp was growing plentiful there. Boys were making boats from reeds, people crossing the river by the reed boats to reach the island while the river flowed peacefully as if saying we are made for each other. I was wishing the time to stop so that I can devour this moment till eternity.

This island is inhabited and has a small village with mango, guava, banyan and other trees. For an avid bird watcher it is the must visit place because water, plants of all size and shape provide peaceful safe sanctuary to birds. People in Ethiopia do not kill and other birds except fowl as they consider it a sacrilege. Their belief has proved a boon to avian life in Ethiopia.

Boatman was getting jittery so we gave in to his demand and started our boat ride back with happiness and satisfaction written large on our face. I had taken some amazing photos and of course memories to last my life time.

I would have loved to be here for one more day but our next day was again a long road trip to Gondar, a citadel of kingdom of king Yohhanes.

City of Bahir Dar is safe to be ventured in night. But it is advisable not to carry valuable (to be on the safe side).

Folk dances are held in small houses. The drifting music was very pleasing. The dingy bars are to be avoided. Drink in good hotels but keep a distance from local pubs. Good pizza, burger joints can be enjoyed, as many places serve excellent veg / non-veg pizza, club sandwiches aerated drinks and fragrant, world famous Ethiopian coffee.

An Ethiopian couple enjoying Beer

With a sumptuous dinner of pizza and coffee we saw the city in night and prepared for next day trip to Gondar and from Gondar to my beloved Nile.
More from this blog of beauty of Ethiopia.

http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/05/a-glimpse-of-ethiopia-lalibella-city-of.html http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/05/glimpse-of-ethiopia-part-2-axum-aksum.html http://mylifesandstories.blogspot.in/2015/06/glimpse-of-ethiopia-part-3-mekhele.html