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| Lenyadri Caves view from steps leading to temple |
It was in my bucket list of things to do and places to visit in India. Many are yet waiting for their turn. Every time my husband and I used to say Oh we have to go to Ashtvinayaka pilgrimage but it did not realise till January 2018, when it took us just 30 minutes to decide upon the date and schedule we would follow and lo and behold we were on our first day of Ashtvinayaka pilgrimage on... January 2018. I truly believe that 'without a Devine call pilgrimage is not possible', else I would have already visited Puri, Badrinath, Kedarnath Mahakaleshwar....
Maharashtra is blessed with beautiful Temples built by devouts and rulers. Many places of worship are built around the Swayambhu means self originated not man made statues. Astvinayak temples are one of them.
We reside in Pune. Pune-Mumbai highway just 20 minutes drive from our place, so we charted our own routine for pilgrimage of Ashtvinayak, different than the one followed in general. We decides to visit two Ganpati Temples out of eight Ashtvinayaka daily and return back home. This way we will be able to visit all eight in four days, while spending night at the comfort of our own home.
We used to leave our home at 6am. latest after taking bath, performing daily puja and having just a cup of tea.
Day 1 started by paying our homage and performing puja at Mayureshwar Ganpati. Loading car with few essentials like water, a change of cloths (if required), some fruits and puja samagri we left our home for Morgaon where bang in the center of the village Mayureshwar Ganpati temple is situated.
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| Mayureshwar Ganpati Morgaon |
Weather in January month is very pleasant. Neither too warm nor too cold. Early in the morning traffic was thin, cool wind was blowing, sun rays were dancing in the horizon and our heart was full of happiness, so it was natural for us to enjoy the drive. We had a pit stop for a cup of tea and along with tea in road side tea stall, enjoyed the surroundings of green fertile land dotted at odd distance with kuchcha/pukka houses.
To reach the temple from parking we had to walk 500 mt. inside the village via a kuchcha road lined both side with shops selling daily provisions, flowers, puja samagri, tea and freshly fried jalebis and other food items.
Without my conscious mind playing any role, my feet were sprinting ahead as if some unknown force was pulling me towards itself. The true meaning of buoyant and buoyancy I understood that day.
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| View of temple from gate |
Morning worshippers were reaching the temple, school children along with teachers who were on pilgrimage and heritage tour were lining up for smooth and orderly Darshan, then there were tour groups happily chatting, some reciting the paryers and quietly waiting for their turn for darshan of Mayureshwar Ganpati. After darshan and prayers (all were getting ample time, no rushing the peities) we went around the temple soaking on the positive vibes. The temple has 50 ft high wall and four minarets. It is said that the minerates were made to camouflage the temple from marauding mughals who were in the spree of destroying the Temples. There are four gates of the temple situated in EWNS direction with different stage of Ganpati. These four gates are symbolic of avatars (Incarnation) of Ganesha in four yug (Sat yug,Treta yug,Dwapar yug and Kali yug). Eastern gate has Balvinayak accompanied by Ram and Sita, western gate has Chintamani avatar accompanied by Kamdev and Rati, southern gate has Vighnesh accompanied by Shiva and Sati, nothern gate had Mahaganpati avatar with Varah and his wife godess of earth Mahi accompanying him.
There is a huge Nandi statue near the entrance and a 5 ft high Mushak. It is the only Ganpati temple where Nandi statue is sanctified, else Nandi is always in Shiva temple.
Ganpati statue here has four hands but what intrigued me was "the three eyes which Mayureswar Ganpati statue has".
Being inquisitive by nature I kept on asking about the presence of Nandi in Ganpati temple and why Moreshwa Ganpati had three eyes. I was partly satisfied from answer of Pandit ji, though thought Googlin later. Try googling to get answers.
We sat in the shade of big peepal tree, then took a quick round of market near by to get the feel of the place. Now we were really wanting to sip that hot cuppa, which was filling the air with such good smell of ginger and cardamom.
Our driver Sonu is our guide, driver and son all bundled in one. He brought tea and we three after saying final prayers and bowing our head in gratitude to Mayureshwar Ganpati moved ahead for out next Ashtvinayaka temple. "The Sidhitek Ganpati"
Sidhitek temple is 63.5 Km away so we took almost an hour and half to reach there. The countryside was such a refreshing site compared to cacophony of city. Sugar canes in the farms were welcoming visitors by waving there long leaves.
Lots of space for parking was available not far from temple. It was almost 10.30 am and now we were feeling hungry also. But breakfast could wait, first Sidhitek for Sidhivinayak Ganpati darshan. Though it was Magh month (hindu calender) an auspicious month for pilgrimage yet early birds did not face much crowd.
The temple entrance, facade is made of black stone and the path to temple well paved. This is the temple where Ganpati's trunk is turned to right instead of left (it is not vakratund here). In 18th century this temple was renovated from the ruin (it was destroyed by mughals) by Punyashloka Ahilya Bai Holkar.
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| Siddhivenayak Ganpati in Siddhitek |
Small queue had formed by the time we entered the temple. We prayed at leisure and filled our eyes, heart and mind with the beauty and serinity of the temple. Riddhi is on the left of Ganpati but Siddhi is not seen with Ganpati in this temple. Another thing which intrigued me was Jay and Vijay who are seen in Vishnu's palace are keeping the entrance of Ganpati temple. I would have loved to stay for longer time and ask the authorities/pundit ji present there questions to satiate my inquisitive mind, but stomachs were growling with hunger, so I was asked to come out and have fresh sugarcane juice before crowd starts filling the stalls.
Chill wind was blowing, fresh sugarcane juice from freshly harvested sugarcane was extremely tempting. I had 2 big glasses of it and smacking my lips thanked the stall owner as we prepared to drive back to Pune. Fruits came handy. All three of us munched on apples before reaching an eating joint.
After having lunch at Kamath restaurant on the way to Pune from Sidhdhitek we enjoyed the quintessential cup of brewed flavorsome coffee.
We reached Pune by 5pm. We had to be rested before embarking upon second days darshan of Girijamata ganpati in caves of lenyadri and Vighnahar Ganpati in Ozar/Ojhar.
Why we chose to go to Girijamata ganpati on the second day itself ? Well I had knee problem and afetr 6 months of accupunture treatment this was our first travel. I wanted the strenuous climb of almost 304 steps to reach the caves and then walking inside the caves to be done when my legs were rested. Since Ashtvinayak pilgimage is always started and ended with Moreshwar Ganpati, thus second day suited us most to visit Lenyadri caves and Girijamata Ganpati.
As uasuasl by 5.30 am we wre ready and started our road journey to Lenyadri by 5.45am. I was skeptical. Will I be able to climb all the step? Will I be able to get the darshan of Girijamata Ganpati? Though I had faith on my will power yet my mind was disturbed through out the travel of 2hrs 35 minutes (almost 90 km from our house).
Parking our car in a dusty open parking along with other cars and buses we headed to purchase the tickets which are required to visit the well maintained steps and caves. We started our climb before it became too hot. Notices were displayed to keep our water bottles,eatables, inside the bag and secure the bags nicely to avoid them being snatched by monkies on the hill.
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Resting platforms of broad stones are made at rergular intervals. It was an enjoyable climb. Beautiful visita of hills dotted with farms, a flowing river far away, green tree with big canopies amongst the drying grass, and sunshine was making these natures bounties sparkle.
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| Hillock with caves |
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| Survival of the fittest |
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| Misty morning scenery |
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| Beautiful Vista |
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| Lenyadri caves |
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| Entrance to the caves and temple |
Monkies were seen everywhere left-right-center but they were not troubling anyone. They were used to humans infiltrating their habitat. As I was climbing and enjoying the landscape I realised a baby monkey quietly sneeking behind an unsuspecting man and putting his front limb in his pocket and snitching his wallet before even he or any of us could realise what was happening. The baby monkey and his protective mother had gala time looking into the wallet at the cost of that man's money and cards. No one was expecting this but we all had a good laugh including the person who's wallet it was, mother momkey later threw it on the steps.
We kept climbing, it was not at all tiring. I was having great time shooting from my camera . I got the oppurtunity of vediographing a monkey snatching water bottle from a lady, opening it , drinking water and then again closing the lid before running away with the water bottle. How much monkies learn and copy humans is amazing.
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| Monkey with bottle |
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| Let me quench my thirst |
The monkies kept us entertaining with their tricks and I did not even realise that I have managed to climb 304 steps without any difficulty or pain. God is great.
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| Yay I made it to the top |
These caves are actually buddhist caves in which Ganpatai statue is concecrated and is worshipped . Caves are so beautifully and intricately carved from inside that I stood transfixed watching it, wondering how did anyone manage to do it in ancient time.
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| Intricately carved Buddhist cave |
Photography was not allowed in the temple. After darshan and prayers we sat outside on the platform enjoying the cool breeze.
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| Enjoying the cool breeze |
The approach path to other caves was under renovation thus we could ot visit them. The cave leading to the temple, its architect indicates the technology India had in ancient time and the hard work people put to bring their house of faith to reality.
By the time we reached down it was almost 11.30 am and we were now tired and hungry. Since Ozar our next stop was long way from Lenyadri thus after having piping hot cup of ginger tea we decided to have brunch. Poha/sabudana khichadi/vada pav/ missal pav/ poori bhaji/dosa/ idli/upma or pakodas(fritters) we had lots to choose from. I went with missal pav because it is the speciality of this place. I was not wrong in ordering missal pav. It was spicy, tangy and yummy. But then I decided to get vada pav for the road. Packing vada pav for three of us, we wre going to parking when we saw girls selling fresh berries and guavas. Purchsed some and started off for Ozar.
It took us approximately 1 hr30 minutes to reach Ozar. After having vada pav and some berries I slept off to be woken up when we reached Ozar. The enterance to the temple premise is huge and grand. Enough parking space is available in the open expanse in the temple premise.
The name of the temple comers from the fact that Lord Ganesha in his this avatar killed the demon Vighnasur. The top of the minerate of the temple edorns all eight ganapati statues of Ashtvinayak.
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| Vighnahar Ganpati Ojhar |
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| Vighnahar ganpati Temple Ojhar |
This temple has three enterance. East enterance is the main enterance with Ganesha in relief position sorrounded by monkeis and parrots. Main temple has two halls. The smaller hall has huge marble mushak and the larger one has ganpati Statue with emerald eyes and diamond in navel and forhead. The top of the wall "shikhar" where ganpati statue is situated is adorned with gold. No hurrying or pushing around or standing in long queues. Smooth sailing for long satiating darshan and time to say prayers.
After darshan and prayers we sat on the big, tiled, cool courtyard in the temple. We wanted to rest before driving back to Pune. Indeed my legs were swollen and were now protesting. I would have loved to around and see the river side near the temple when it is illuminated by colorful lights, but had to return back to get proper rest for next foot of our pilgrimage.
We reached home when last ray of sun had bid good bye. Hot water bath and dinner done we hit the bed and were woken up by alarm chiming simultaneously on mine and my husband's mobile.
Fresh and ready we embarked upon our our less trenuous road trip to MahaGanpati in Ranjangaon and Chintamani ganpati in Theur/Thevur.
First we visited Chintamani ganpati in Thevur/Theur. Almost 55 km from our place thus it took us just an hour to reach the temple.
Though I am always armed with mobile and camera to click the photo I could not do so because camera, mobiles had to be deposited in the entrance itself.
The Ganpati here is named Chintamani because it is said that Lord Brahma was restless and meditated and worshipped Ganesha here. Ganesha appeared and calmed down his agitated mind by getting his mind rid of all "Chintas"(worries) .
Another legend says that sage Kapila used to stay here. He had a mani (gem) called "Chintamani". It was a wish granting mani. Asur king Gana forcibly took it from him. Kapila prayed to Lord Ganesha to grant him that mani again. Lord appreared along with his wife Riddhi (who by her power generated huge army), and fought Asur king Gana, killed him and returned the mani to sage Kapil. Thus here Ganpati gets the name "Chintamani" .
Black stone gate and nice, clean courtyard dotted with temples dedicated to Lord Shiva, Ram, hanuman, Krishna are in the periphery of the courtyard. The temple gate gives the feeling of temple being smaller in size. But once we reached inside we realised that the temple is huge. The main hall infront of the garbh Gruh (where idol is situated) is wooden structure and there is big black stone fountain infront. Peshwas used to visit this temple before embarking for a battle to seek blessings and after battle to pay obiesence.
Chintamani Ganpati was Peshwa'sKuldewat(कुलदेवता). We took our time sitting in the temple hall, praying and later just sitting doing nothing. It was theraputic.
By the time we realised it was almost 11am. We had to move on.
Another almost 90 minutes leisurely drive, stopping in between to enjoy the vista, snacking on fruits I had packed, we reached Ranjangaon by 12.30 pm.
Once we reached ranjangaon we made a bee line for the temple, because sun was shining bright over head and it was getting very hot. Village market was bustling with sellers and shoppers. I could not but resisit purchasing some fresh leafy vegetables and enjoy fresh tender coconut water.
The gate to the enterance of temple area is very grand and beautiful. The temple area is well paved and has huge tiled open space. The enterance to the temple has shaded pathway. Huge hall and marble courtyard infront of the main temple greets the worshippers. The main enterance of temple is towards east and is situated in such a way that when Sun is Dakshinayan (South ward moving) sun rays fall directly on the idol. It is said that Lord Shiva concecrated the idol of Ganesha here and worshipped him before fighting the Asura Tripurasur.
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| Ranjan gaon Ganpati |
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| Courtyard of maha Ganpati Temple |
The idol here is depicted having ten trunks and twenty hands. Shakti holding lotus sitting on his lap. Mahaganpati is worshipped as Pram-Brahma (the is the ultimate God).
The hall infront of the Garbha gruh is huge marbled floored space where devotees sit in meditation. Cameras are not allowed and to maintain silence for peaceful meditation mobiles have to be switched off.
We sat for quite some time there enjoying the bliss of silence.
We enjoyed the lunch which is served as prasad (holy offering to Lord). What more one can ask for, hunger of heart, mind and stomach all were satiated.
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| Cool tiled courtyard Mahaganpati Ranjangaon |
In open area around the temple, park with statues of different animals, bullock carts and many other depicting village life is built, which is very well maintained.
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| Ranjan gaon Ganpati park |
After relaxing in temple we went around the park. By 5 pm we left for Pune. Another night of rest followed by last lap of our pilgrimage.
Our last day was for Ballaleshwar in Pali ans Varad Ganpati in Mahad.
First we visited Ballaleshwar. This is the only temple of ganpati which is named after the devotee. Lord ganesha was pleased with the devotion of 'Ballal"( who was the son of a very rich merchant) and gave him the boon that before my name people here will always take your name while worshiping. Thus the temple which earlier was a wooden structure was named after Ballal as Ballaleshwar Ganpati temple.
To enter the main temple we had to go through many chambers dedicated to lord Ram, Shiva.
The wodden structure of 16th century was converted to mare stable and permanant structure of stone. It is huge east facing temple and the staue is positioned as such that when sunrises the sun rays fall on the statue. Even though there was huge crowd but everything was very well managed and standing in queue we got our chance of darshan fast and quick. We were allowed to pray at leisure. But photography was not permitted and all belonging had to be deposited in locker.
The market of Sudhagad is dotted with shops selling homemade poha papad, kokam juice etc. The most famous is Poha papad, so we purchased papad and kokum juice and left for Varadhar Ganpati in Mahad.
From parking we had to negotiate through narrow lanes covered from both side with shops selling myraid of things. It get really annoying when shopkeepers start pestering, but then this is part and parcel of life. They are earning their livelihood from it.
The temple area is again very big with nicely paved path for parikrama(परिक्रमा) and big marble floored place to sit in front of the place where Ganapati idol is consecrated.
I love one common thing in all Ashtvinayaka Temples that each has big open place where devouts can sit and pray /meditate or simply relax soaking in the positive vibes of the temple.
Arti was being performed when we reached the temple, so we were lucky to participate in arti. No hustling or pushing around, crowd management was excellent. Every one got enough time to say prayers and sit in courtyard to pray or meditate.
Near the parking locals had their eateries serving fresh hot food. We gorged on Idli, Vada Sambhar and cooling Chas.
We had planned to go to Murud for three days relaxed vacation by seaside after visiting alst of the eight ganpati temples so we had apcked accordingly before leaving. Hotel rooms were booked.
We replenished our water, fruits and snacks stock and proceeded to Murud with the blessings of Ganapati bappa.
We came back on Monday and on Tuesday went to Mayureswar ganpati darshan to complete our Ashtvinayak pilgrimage.
What a visit it was ! Started our pilgrimage on Tuesday and completed it on Tuesday with a three days amazing trip to Murud and Janjira.
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| View of janjira fort from hotel's private beach |
